That would be for a pure moly coating...the Lubalux doesn't have the same properties from what Nosler told me...and the on the moly fusion product...read what they have to say what it isn't...Moly-Disulfide (MoS2) is a dry film product. It is a salt that creates a loose bond of sliding upon itself "bond". The sulfur etches into the metal surface, though. As a result, the metal surface is dimensionally changed and "worn down" by the treatment. After many treatments of Moly-Disulfide treatment, major changes have been recorded. Even technical grade, in the presence of oxygen, at 300 degrees C (560 F) the Molybdenum component oxidizes to MO3, leaving three atoms of what would be elemental Sulfur to now become sulfuric acid, if in the presence of water (MOISTURE).
So...at least in the Ballistic Silver tips it isn't...I do know that it does take a better scrubbing to get all of the black out of it....and also...don't shoot the blue coated Barnes on top of the black lubalox...it really plays heck with your groups...and is a real pain to get all of both of them out of the barrel afterwards...been there... done that...won't go there againAre Lubalox and Moly the same?
NO, Lubalox (CT Ballistic Tip) is an oxide-based coating, which reduces fouling and allows more shooting between cleanings, also Lubalox does not buildup in the barrel and requires only normal cleaning procedures. Moly (CT Fail Safe & Partition Gold) is a molybdenum disulfide coating which reduces fouling and friction. Moly requires a barrel be conditioned by shooting several rounds after cleaning and special cleaning procedures. Accuracy with non-coated bullets may not be up to par in a Moly conditioned barrel.