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Discussion Starter #1
Was scrounging through the plumbing area of my local hardware store late last week and found some 1/4" copper tubing fittings. They seemed like just the ticket for making up a slightly smaller linstock than I have previously been using.... have less than 5 bucks in the entire thing including the oak dowel.



So far I haven't found any 1/4" sash cord without a synthetic fiber core. It's easy enough to pull that core out of the cord when cut to 5 or 6 foot lengths.

Haven't nitrated the cord at all as it seems to smolder along quite well all on its own. It is however "self extinguishing" when it burns down to the copper tubing. Shouldn't blow apart as badly as the 3 strand twisted cotton rope that I had previously been using.... will find out for sure when I touch off a live round.
 

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E.D.,

Looks really nice. Check here for braided 100% cotton rope:

http://rope.ws/

Good stuff, I use it all the time for slow match.

Nitrating the rope will make it burn a bit hotter and keep it from possibly going out by itself but whatever works for you is great.
 

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Nice proprotions with that 1/4" copper! Looks like it's worth the effort vs. lots of matches.
 

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My next project is going to be a linstock.

I just placed an order for five pounds of potassium nitrate and 100 feet of 1/4" cotton rope. Both were ordered from the links in the stickies, these references are a great asset.

I really like the looks of Evil Dog's copper-tube linstock. I may pattern mine after it.

E.D., what is the diameter and length of your dowel?
 

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Double D said:
Will a linstock light green cannon fuse?
DD,

Sure will. I do it all the time with my cannon on a stick. Blow on the lit end to get rid of any ash just before you touch the fuze.
 

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I have mine together. It's not completed, the wood still has to be finished and the head secured, but the metalwork is done.

I don't have any slowmatch yet (the potassium nitrate and cotton rope are both ordered but neither will ship until Tuesday) so there's no great hurry.

See my thread "Yet another linstock design..." for details and pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Terry.... sorry that I haven't been able to get back to you sooner, was gone for 5 days helping my brother move from Calif to Texas.

I used 3/4" oak dowel, 3 feet long. Also check with your local welding shop and get a brass ferrel that is 3/4" O.D..... turn the other end of the dowel down to fit.
 

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Thanks, I had 'guesstimated' the wood to be ¾". and that's what I used for mine.

I used a poplar dowel instead of oak because the poplar came in a 48" length and the oak only came in 36". If I see where the extra length is not necessary, I may replace it with an oak dowel since all my other implements are oak.

We have brass ferrels at work but I don't know if we have any that large. The ones that we use the most are for 1/4" hose and are a perfect match to a 5/8" dowel. That's what I used on my worm, which is made from a 1/8" brazing rod and set in a 5/8" oak dowel.

For some reason the pic will not post, but you can click here to see it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great looking implements Terry.... how do you manage to keep them so clean? For a sponge, take a look at the small paint roller refills. They will generally fit a 3/4" dowel with a bit of sanding and are a good fit for a 1" bore.
 

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They're clean in the photo because they were new. They have been used many, many times since the photo was taken. The worm is pretty much black like iron now.

As for the paint roller head, what do you think that is in this photo?



Actually, that's only half a roller head as it looks more in proportion to the other implements. This implement was built for show and not for use.

The heads I actually use are not as pretty (a lot shaggier), and are set up to be mounted on a shortened aluminum shotgun cleaning rod. Not historically accurate, but lots more efficient than a sponge on a stick.

The roller heads have a bronze shotgun cleaning brush pushed inside the center tube. Depending on the size roller that they were intended to fit, they will accept either a 10/12 gauge or 20/28 gauge brush. You can screw the roller heads on and off the rod just like any other cleaning tool.

The brushes are a very tight fit, and the bristles will hold the head securely even during vigorous scrubbing. But they can be pulled out to reuse when the head starts to get ragged.
 
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