Graybeard Outdoors banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a new Anschutz 1712 and have been shooting a 54.18 MSR up to now. I have measured the 1712 first stage at 1 lb 4 oz, with the trigger releasing at 2 lb 5.3 oz, for a second stage weight of 17.1 oz.

On my 54 MSR I am measuring 4.2 oz. I knew it was light, but had not realized it was that light.

I would like to adjust the 1712 trigger so the second stage weights are the same on both guns. I would be willing to go up some on the 54 MSR weight if needed.

I have been looking for information on adjusting the 1712 trigger. How to adjust the first stage weight is obvious, and I know I might have to replace the spring. How to adjust the second stage is less obvious, though I understand it involves the screw on the side.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

In case anyone is wondering how I measured the weights...
I used the L shaped metal rod from an inexpensive (and inaccurate)trigger pull scale and used string to connect it to a plastic water bottle with lid. I added water to the bottle in very small amounts until I had the weight of the rod, string, water, bottle and lid which would just take out all the first stage movement, or was the minimum which would trip the trigger.
I will take the bottles to the store tomorrow and see what they weight there- but I believe I am very close with the scales at home, though neither has been calibrated in years.
I weighed the parts together on a digital scale which reads in 0.01 lb up to 20 lb. I then weighted again with an old Mettler scientific scale which goes to 1200 grams and reads to 10 mg. If I take the Lb measurements and convert to grams the results are within 0.5% of what I got with the other scale. Much closer than I had anticipated!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Need help with 1712 trigger weight adjustme

As far as I know it is impossible to make that trigger on the current 1712 break as light as you want it to. The original two stage hunter trigger would do that but believe me when I tell you the one you currently have is much better. Most of the shooters that have this 2 stage trigger disliked the original lighter 2nd stage and had it modified. Then late last year Anschutz modified the trigger to what it is now. I only know that because that is when I purchased my last 1712 and it was brought into the country in October or November 04. You may be better off increasing the weight of pull on the 54.18 if you want similar second stages. But realistically just practice with them and you will get used to both styles.
You can slightly decrese the overall weight of your 1712 trigger with the trigger return spring screw, as this will affect both stages. But you really can't tell the difference between 2lb. and 2lb. 4ozs. Good luck. Bill R
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Need help with 1712 trigger weight adjustme

I am more concerned with the second stage weight than the overall weight. I have read of people setting them up for a second stage of about 8 oz. This is more along the lines of what I was anticipating- and would be about half the current 2nd stage weight.

I suspect if I did get the second stage to 4 oz I would "pull through it" at times- perhaps a lot of times!

The gun I have I bought at Winnsboro at the "old" price- but I do not know when it was brought over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
Need help with 1712 trigger weight adjustme

So -- this is the gun that Duckgumbo sold without asking me if I was interested? :-D

Hornet is right about it being a mistake to try to get the balance too far out of line by making the 2nd stage too light.

You can, however, make the 2nd stage about as light as you want by changing out the cam in the trigger unit. (The position of the cam 'nose' where it contacts the sear lever is the determining factor.)

Neal Stepp in Ft Worth has the appropriate cams. Call him at 817 595 2090, tell him what you're trying to do and he should be able to send you what you need. (Keep in mind that what you'll be doing is something of a 'cut-and-try' experiment because the contact position is critical and the mfg tolerances aren't all that tight. IOW, you might have to do some stoning to get exactly where you want to go even with the proper cam in place.)

Changing the cam out is simple...'IF' you understand anything about trigger mechanics.
HOWEVER: (and I'm not trying to insult you) when someone mentions changing trigger settings and stoning trigger surfaces or engagement points my theory is that anyone who has to ask what needs to be done probably shouldn't do it!

Finally, please see the part above where I said that Hornet was right...


:wink:
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top