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NaN is a javascript error message meaning the result is "not a number" and the implication is that something was entered incorrectly. Since there is only one input field, it may be that you entered a space along with the numerals. I can't really tell without a screen shot showing the error message.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Monkey Dog & doubled & GGaskill

Thank you all very much for the feedback. I shall revisit the Spherical Shot Weight Calculator. I suspect I am entering something incorrectly.
Have read more than one source stating filler is not necessary. But it does increase pressure, causing recoil and louder report. Have read the posts in the stickies ref making blanks. All helpful. Read discussion of using paper, both dry and wet. Seem to be building this like an actual blank cartridge in a traditional firearm. What is necessary is the equivalent of a wad. And the thicker/heavier the wad, the more resistance and thus more pressure. Am I headed in the right direction?

Carriage should be done within a week! I am to inspect the work again before 1/2 inch plate is cut. Hope to do so within next two days. Have opportunity to put whatever design/lettering I want on sides of carriage. Considering: name of builder with location and production date on one side and image of Saint Barbara on the other.

Have to get my kit together. Believe a 17 caliber bore brush might work as vent brush. Have heavy leather gloves used with wood stove. Looking for 2 1/2 inch brushes. Will talk to the shop about a worm. I'm sure they could make one. Wet mop and dry mop to be terry cloth (old towels) attached to correct length wooden dowels and wrapped to correct diameter. Would like to have a "nice" ram rod but for now will use solid wooden dowel. Areas I'm not sure about:
1. the pick - understand it has to be non sparking material. Any suggestion on what would be long enough and stiff enough to use?
2. Linstock - think I can come up with a crude one for now.
3. Slow match - What do you all use?
4. Anything else I am not aware of.

Thanks again for any and all input. You are helping me learn from this experience.

GCG
 

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Just a sharpened piece of brass rod will work fine for a vent pick.

A few examples pictured. The ones with handles are JB Welded into place. One uses a clock key just for fun.
Water Rectangle Wood Liquid Asphalt
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
double d

Yes, I have green fuse. No brush needed and I have a butane vape type torch. Used recently when removing a stubborn front sight on a rifle. H&R had used Lock Tight on it. Another problem solved.

Fredstaple & moose53

Excellent examples of picks. Again easier than I thought. I have a bad habit of trying to over engineer things.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Went to the machine works Monday to check on things. The man doing the work was pulled out for a priority job out of state. He has been catching up on is local work and had hoped to get back to the carriage today. Did not work out. He is to contact me when he can put some time on it. There are a couple of very minor things we have discussed. He still wants to have it completed by the 4th of July. We shall see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
Another update.
Checked with the shop again today. My ace builder has been on the road out of state again! Can't complain since they are giving me a break on all the labor involved here. They tell me I can pick it up and fire it on 4th of July but would then need to bring it back for finishing touches. Told them to hold on to it and do it right. I plan on being around the next 4th of July and a few more after that. Dad lived to be 90 and I plan on beating that by at least one year. :oops:

Also found a 3/32 inch brass rod about 24 inches long in Dad's scrap pile. Confirmed it fits vent and ground a point on one end with a bench grinder. Will be on the lookout for something nice to make a handle out of for the pick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Excellent observations. Thanks for responding. I'm thinking it will mostly be fired as a salute gun but I might be able to get away with firing low angle with lighter charges. To late to redesign now. Goes to show that experience is really valuable. I appreciate all input.

GCG
 

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Even the original carriages were noted for their tumbling backward when fired, withs trong safety warnings about standing in front of the gun (duhh!), but also BEHIND the gun when firing.
The official range of the Lyle type lifesaving guns like yours was 700 yards with a 17 pound projectile.
The projectile was basically a cylindrical piece of steel round stock about 11" long with a long eye bolt (3/4" diameter by 18" long) threaded into one end.
The projectile had to be inserted fully into the barrel, resting on the powder charge, with the eye sticking out enough to attach the shot line.

The powder charge is described as:
"For later shipboard Lyle guns, the powder charge was prepacked
in cloth bags with 2.5 ounces of black powder with the bags marked
“One half normal charge for Lyle gun, 2.5 ounces black powder”. Two
packs were used for a normal charge of 5 ounces, but three bags to-
taling 7.5 ounces could be used in an emergency." U.S. Coast Guard,
Proceedings of the Marine Safety Council, February, 1950, p.24.

NOTE- the powder used was ALWAYS BLACK POWDER NEVER SMOKELESS. And, the black powder was a very large grained cannon grade powder for this use. Finer grades of powder are unsafe to use as they burn much quicker for much higher pressures.
 

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If you elevate the barrel high enough to get the bore centerline ahead of the back of the mount, the mount should remain upright.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
John.S.

Thank you for getting involved in this discussion. I an grateful for the information you provided and shall attempt to find a copy of the Coast Guard documents you cited. The figures you quoted are in line with what I had anticipated doing based on the information in the stickies at the start of this thread. My rough calculation indicated a "maximum" charge of 7 ounces of black powder. Using an approximate start point of one half, I was planning to start at 4 ounces of black powder for a blank charge and working up slowly from there. I would not consider using anything other than coarse grain "black powder". I wanted to use "Cannon" grade but none is available through any of the sources I found on the internet. Graf and Son has assured me that "Reenactor" grade is the same as cannon grade and they have been in the business for some time. I hate assumptions but do not see any other way to go. Now I am considering cutting back to 3.5 ounces of BP as a start point.

The 17 lbs projectile seems to me to be about right. The Coston bore of 2.5 inch is 63.5mm. If I remember correctly, an M198 105mm (about 4.1 inch) howitzer HE projo has an average weight of 36 lbs. But this is a cased round. The average weight of an M109 155 mm (about 6.1 inch) HE projo was 98 lbs. This was a separate jo breach loaded ahead of bags of powder. But then, this was certainly not black powder. This has very likely changed since I retired in 1994.

Another concern is the "filler material". Also based on stickies at the top of this thread concerning blanks, I calculated a 2.5 inch iron ball as weighing 2.07 lbs. This would imply at least 2 lbs of filler. Suggestions for what to use as a filler would be greatly appreciated. One filler suggested in the info on loading blanks was flour. This would be combustible. What kind of muzzle flash does this produce? Please feel free to correct me if I am going off track here.

Thanks,
Mike (GCG)
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
GGaskill

I am sorry I cannot follow you but I really want to understand.

You stated: "If you elevate the barrel high enough to get the bore centerline ahead of the back of the mount, the mount should remain upright."

Please define "bore centerline". Is this the center of the bore from muzzle to breach? How do I determine if it is "ahead of the back of the mount"? Safety is my main concern. Thank you for working with a novice.

Mike
(GCG)
 

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The filler for the blank should be the same volume as the charge. Not weight, but volume.

Bore centerline, the center line of the bore from muzzle to breech. Imagine is as an arrow pointing in the direction of the recoil.
I think everyone is saying as you raise the bore elevation, the recoil will push the gun down more versus driving it back and possibly causing it to flip over backwards. More like a mortar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
double d & Fredstaple

Thanks much for simplifying this. Now I got it!

I think I mentioned this before. The carriage we are building is a composite of the Coston and the Lyle Gun carriages. For portability purposes I wanted to be able to remove the trunnion caps and lift the barrel off. The man doing the design work raised the height of the trunions so that the breach could pivot enough to allow firing high angle. He knows nothing about artillery but realized that without doing so elevation was very limited. Historic accuracy was not a concern. We are working to have a functional weapon. Somewhat like vintage cars. Some like em true to original and some like em customized. Thanks to all for keeping me on track.

Mike
(GCG)
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Finally opened a can of the powder I ordered. Have any of you used this brand before? To my untrained eye it does not appear to be very coarse grained.

Font Liquid Gas Packaging and labeling Drink
Art Font Plant Circle Event


Additionally ordered two lbs of Graf & Sons brand of black powder, also "re-enactor" grade. It is "Lot-No.: WP-21K0086". Both were manufactured by WANO Schwarzpulver GMBH in Germany. Expect it to be the same. What do you think?
 

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