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only shot my ultra about 40 rds before went

Generally speaking, the rimless calibers have a tendacy to have stuck cases, the chamber polish eliminates or reduces this occurence, which most attribute to the chamber being left somewhat rough from the factory. The bore polishing lapping reduces the required break in which is normal for any new factory bore. The effects of shooting 150-200 rounds is easily accomplished by polishing/lapping the bore and shooting 40-50 rounds....or less!!

Tim
 

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only shot my ultra about 40 rds before went

A rimmed case has a rim that is larger than the body of the case like a .30-30..... the 308, 270 and .223 are all rimless.

Polishing the bore with flitz, JB bore compound, Maas, Simichrome or any fine metal polish won't hurt the bore, all it does it make it smoother, just like shooting it does.

Tim
 

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only shot my ultra about 40 rds before went

The Patchworm will work too, I use them on my 17hmrs and 204 Ruger cuz I don't like the rod flex in the small bore. Just be careful at the muzzle when you pull it thru, make sure it comes straight out the muzzle and don't let the line rub the crown of the muzzle.

Tim
 

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only shot my ultra about 40 rds before went

With the abrasive on the line and in the bore, it can damage it, you should always try to keep the line pull straight out the muzzle even without the polish because there is carbon in the bore which can also act as an abrasive. I change patch and add more polish every 3 or for strokes.

Tim
 

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only shot my ultra about 40 rds before went

I wouldn't recommend using the boresnake for this kind of work, a good rod, jag and patches or a bore mop would be best. An economy version would be the Patchworm, kind of a cross between a boresnake and a cleaning rod. In my opinion, a boresnake is a field cleaning tool, best used once, or twice in the field, then washed before its next use. Using it multiple times would be just like reusing cleaning patches and I know most shooters would not do that. Once the snake has been pulled thru the bore, it has picked up carbon, dragging it thru the bore again makes that carbon an abrasive that may result in undesired results if used enough.

www.patchworm.com

Tim

edit: I would also recommend against using solvent on the boresnake brush, any copper solvent on the brush will disolve it over time just like the copper in the bore. A lot of users remove the brush from their boresnakes since bronze brushes are considered detrimental to bores by many.

If you get a good one piece rod, also get a bore guide or some sort, I use the little muzzle guards on my Handi barrels, they ride on the rod an when cleaned from the breech, fit right in the chamber opening to center the rod and prevent contact at the throat which is as susceptible to damage as the crown at the muzzle.

http://store.kleen-bore.com/store/product381.html
 

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The general concensus in a previous thread on the topic was that it would be too aggressive for the shallow micro-groove rifling typical in NEF/H&R bores, using the finer grits may be ok, but polishing with JB Bore compound or Flitz would be a much better alternative to just shooting it with conventional bullets than the Tubbs for break-in.

Tim
 
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