I thank ya'll for getin' me started, but now I wanna speed things up a little bit. I want pre-make some paper cartridges. I understand that rolling papers work pretty well, what size? What else do I need, and how do I go about making and using them?
I've never done it, but I believe that the paper needs to be nitrated before you make cartridges of it. Otherwise you will get pieces of still burning paper out the barrel and probable pieces remaining in the cylinder as you go to reload! OOPS! I would guess ignition would be probablematic if the paper were not nitrated, too.
If the Shooters.com archives are still up, go there and do a search on nitrated paper and paper cartridges. I believe that there were several discussions there about making cartridges for rifles, and the same information would apply to pistols except size.
As to size, I would measure my powder column now, cut the paper to make one that size and still close. Roll the paper around a dowel the size of your chamber, twist one end, pull off the dowel, (wax the dowel well first) fill with powder and twist closed. Cut the twist as close as possible. Experiment with the paper, will a cap ignite and burn it? Then with powder and a wad, is ignition reliable or will you have to cut (bite) the cartridge begore loading?
Sounds like fun, I wish I had the time to do it. Let us know how it works out.
Someone had an entire article on that on another forum about 3 months ago, can't recall which. He used cigarette paper, formed around a dowel that would fit the bore of the cylinder. Use the provided glue-edge for the tubular section and Wilhold glue sparingly for one end, flapped over like a christmas wrap. Then fill with measured powder charge, and glue the ball in the open end at the equater. After loading, he suggested puncturing the paper through the nipple with a needle. Could probably puncture before loading and stuff everything in. The cigarette paper burns completely, but I would be sure all smoldering remnants were all gone before I reloaded.....
I'm curious if anyone here actually has experience doing this. It seems to me that this process would introduce several layers of paper or paper and glue between the cap and the powder. I wonder how this would effect ignition, inhibit, delay, or no effect? Same question with either the twist or glue end, as the glue will not be as flammable as nitrated paper. I don't even know who quickly flammable nitrated paper is, is it explosive as BP is or does it burn more slowly, perhaps delaying ignition?
Shrink I have a friend at our monthly shoot that has done this ever since I've known him, he tears off the "twist" and loads, with the twist torn off, only the powder is exposed in the chamber bottom and nipple opening. I don't think he nitrates the paper, just a rolling paper. He does allow a bit of time between shooting and reloading so embers are gone. He doesen't have much in the way of paper remaining anyway. I think if I were going to do this, I'd like to try going all out and nitrate the paper.
Use a round ball, at least until you have learned to seat conical bullets. They are tricky, and would be worse with that paper involved. Has nothing to do with the presence or absence of a grease grove, has to do with seating the conical straight.
I've seen one person do this in a manner that causes the paper cartridge to break during seating. They are cone shaped and don't hold much powder, maybe 15 grains in the .44! That's about all it take to throw the ball to the target I guess. When inserted and rammed, the cartridge bursts and the powder is exposed. They look like they take a while to make. He doesn't nitrate them. Simple cigarette paper. If I were going to try it, and I am going to, I'd get me a dowell the appropriate diameter and forget about the cone shape. Sand the dowell. Form the paper tubes and lightly glue. Place a ball and glue the edge. Drop your powder and rather than twist the bottom, I'd make 4 small slits at the compass points and fold them in and glue the last one down. Now you have what looks like a cartridge. Once you've rammed them home, you can take a nipple pick and insert it into each nipple a couple times and break the paper at the bottom.
has a short discussion, including recommended powder charges, on this. They maintained that the cigarette papers are nitrated and have gummed adhesive. The papers break when the projectile is rammed home.
If this helps any, but I have made paper "cartridges" for my 12 ga BP shotgun using the cheap newpaper style line paper the kids use in grade shool. Just tear off the bottom before loading. It has alway gone BOOM, and its fast to reload.
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