I tried to find 9 lb paper like you, but had no luck. I use college ruled notebook paper (16 lb) for my patching and it works fine. I cast, patch, lube and load. I don't resize aferwards and get excellent results. Four rounds touching and a fifth just a smidgen out; day in, day out. I have some 9 lb that Kragman sent me, but haven't used it yet, but I sure don't feel like I'm out in left field with the Wal-Mart paper that I patched my last batch with.
Kragman, thanks anyway. Sometime late last spring, my computer had unprotected electrical intercourse and picked up a virus. It went belly up the week someone sent me some paper and I couldn't retrieve the associated e-mail to thank the person that sent it. Anyway, thanks again to the good soul that sent me the paper.
Anyone needing paper might want to try: http:www.rceco.com/techtalk.htm
You will find some paper on the web site, along with one of the best lubes for paper patch I have ever used, or you can call Richard at the number they give. The whole history of Corbin swages, the family, etc, etc, is on the site and it's easy to navigate.
BTW; I have no interest in this company, just that they have been nice to do business with.
If you don't see the weight / thickness on the web site I'm sure someone there can put you on the right track. And it won't cost you an arm and a leg. Trust me on this one.
Don't want to project that I am the subject matter expert, but I will say I have tried Gas checks with Paper Patching and, if they helped, I was not astute enough to see it.
It would appear to me that a Gas Check is just another variable that needs to be controlled. Hard to do, in view of the fact they weigh out a bit differently. Not much, but some differences. I discovered long ago that the base of a bullet is much more important than it's nose end, excepting very long ranges. With that though in the back of my mind and observing my sprue cut a little closer, I have managed to reduce my groups considerable.
I also use a wad...with a small bean size roll of lube on top to form a "cookie" when I seat the bullet. I am experimenting with a newspaper wad over my "bean" before seating. haven't realized any great benefit from that yet but I'm told to "have patience, it's there". we'll see.
Don't know about some of the other things you're doing on a one on one basis. However, they all appear to deserve consideration as part of the load "work up". I can say, with a bit of experience, that your paper lube should, and will, work. It is the same lube I've pretty much settled on after several years of pure frustration.
Smokinjoe...Good tip, very much appreciated.
I have plans to "make smoke" again today if the weather holds. I'm also running short on paper, since I had a little accident and my homemade lube got on my paper supply.
I do have to wonder about the resiliency of this paper when it comes to a "tight" roll. If it is not too fragile it will certainly be a good buy.
I like so many went on a search for a much thinner paper than 20 pound for patching with. I just could not find any reams marked in the weight I was looking for, so I went to the art section at Wal-Mart and found the tablets of tracing paper from Mead for $1.97 40 sheets 9x12 in.
The one thing I noticed right off, is that with this paper I do not have to bell the mouth of the case as much for it to accept the patched bullet
I patched my RCBS .451 rn 535-gr hb bullets let dry and then lubed with 50/50 mix of beeswax - neatsfoot... used grease cookie wad with 90.0 gr of FFFg compressed .450" The range test results were great. All patches left the tell tail paper shreads 3 to 4' out from the barrel. The loads produced great accuracy at 100 yards grouping at less than 1"
Well this worked for me, BUT your milage may vary :grin:
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