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Some of you may profit from my 30 years of shooting black powder revolvers. They are:
Colt 2nd generation (circa 1982) Navy in .36 caliber, 7-1/2 barrel.
Remington 1858 .44, made by Uberti, 8-inch barrel.
Remington 1858 .36, made by Pietta, 6-1/2 inch barrel.
Colt 1862 Police, five-shot .36 caliber, made by A. San Marco. 5-1/2 inch barrel.
Colt 1849 Pocket, five-shot .31 caliber. Unknown maker. Presumably made in Italy. Purchased new in 1976. A piece of junk that won't keep five balls on a paper plate at 15 feet because the bore is so rough. It's a wall-hanger.
Here's what I've learned (you may want to print this out; it's long).

1. When you first receive your revolver, familiarize yourself with its operation. Particularly important is learning how to completely disassemble it down to the last screw and part because you'll need to do this later for cleaning.
Use a good quality screwdriver that fits well in the screwheads. This will prevent burred screw heads down the line. Some nipple wrenches have screwdrivers on them, but they almost all fit poorly and should not be used.
Most bores of new black powder revolvers need smoothing. Buy some JB Bore Cleaning Compound (in a little white plastic jar) or Iosso Bore Cleaner (in a white metal tube) and work this into a patch that will fit snugly in the bore.
Work this back and forth for a polishing effect. I would suggest at least a dozen patches of this treatment for a new bore. After six or so patches, you'll notice that the bore is noticeably smoother.
You may also smooth the chambers in your cylinder with the same treatment. Do this all by hand; a drill or other machines can remove metal too quickly.
Interestingly, when I received my Uberti .44 Remington I was in a hurry to shoot it so I didn't give it the bore-smoothing treatment. Instead, I brushed the bore with Ronson lighter fluid (to remove any petroleum preservatives) and swabbed out the bore with patches wet with lighter fluid, followed by dry patches. Then it was off to the range!
My first shot missed the 4X4-foot sheet of plywood entirely, at 25 yards from a benchrest!
The next shot hit the base of the target frame. The third through sixth shot began to come together in an 18-inch group. By the third cylinderful, groups were about 6 inches in diameter.
I was pretty disgusted when I brought it home, but I gave it the bore-polishing treatment after cleaning it thoroughly. The next trip to the range, with the same balls, powders and caps, brought me 3-inch groups!
Today, that Remington shoots closer than I can hold. On occasion, it will put six .454 or .457-inch balls into an area slightly larger than a 25-cent piece at 25 yards from a benchrest.
And to think I considered selling it after that first range session!

2. Black powder is usually more accurate in these revolvers than Pyrodex. I don't know why, but that's been my experience. However, considering that every firearm is an individual, with its own likes and dislikes, it behooves you to try both under careful conditions of comparison.
I use Goex FFFG in all my black powder revolvers. There is little point in using FFG black powder. In my experience it doesn't burn as clean and produces lower velocities. I haven't tried the other brands of black powder, but I'm sure they work just as well in revolvers.
If you can't find black powder in your area, then try Pyrodex P or any of the other black powder substitutes.

3. Use lubricated, felt wads between the ball and powder. During hot days of low humidity, I also put lubricant over the ball in conjunction with the wad. I've found that the extra lubricant during dry conditions keeps fouling softer and helps accuracy.
Well-lubricated felt wads may leave an exceedingly clean bore. I've shown the bore to friends while out shooting, and they were amazed. You'd think I was shooting smokeless powder because the bore was so free of fouling. (But never, NEVER use smokeless powder in any black powder arm!)

4. Snap at least two caps on each nipple before the first loading. This blows all crud and oil out of the nipples and dries the chamber. I use CCI Magnum caps for this, as they have a little extra power. For shooting, however, Magnum caps are not needed.

5. Hot, soapy water is best for cleaning these revolvers. I've tried all kinds of wonder cleaners but still return to hot, soapy water.
I fill a plastic basin half full of water, put in a chunk of Ivory soap (it floats, so you never have to search for it), and while the water is getting soapy I disassemble my revolver down to its last screw and part. Don't forget to remove the nipples from the cylinder.
Everything but the wooden grips go into the water. An assortment of small, stiff brushes aid cleaning immeasurably. Pipe cleaners and Q-tips are good too, for reaching those tight spaces inside the frame. I work up a good lather on my brushes before cleaning each part. The soap really cuts grease.
Purchase a small, plastic colander to fit in your basin. When you've finished cleaning the part, separate it from the rest by placing it in this submerged colander. Keep all of your parts under water until the final rinse later. If you take them out, they will rust in minutes.
When all parts are clean, move to the kitchen sink.
Preheat the oven to its lowest setting, usually about 150 degrees, and leave the oven door slightly open.
Put a sink-stop with built in strainer in the sinkhole to catch any screws that might escape the colander. Rinse the parts in the colander under hot, tap water.
Immediately pat parts dry with paper towels. Run at least three dry patches down the bore to remove any moisture. Each cylinder chamber should get at least two dry patches.
Give a quick puff of breath through each nipple, from the flat end. This will blow out any water in the nipple.
Puts all parts (except wooden grips, of course) in a low metal pan and place in the warm oven. Leave in the oven at least 30 minutes. This will drive any moisture out of the metal parts.
While the parts are still warm, cover well with olive oil, lard, tallow, Crisco or any commercially made black powder lubricant. Vegetable or animal-based oils are best for black powder, as they keep fouling down. These warm parts will soak up these natural oils quickly. Don't be afraid to reapply. These will season the metal and prevent fouling from sticking so readily.
I saturate a clean patch with tallow or Crisco and push it down the bore. A hot barrel will soak up a lot of this natural grease but that's good.
Wooden grips can be cleaned with a damp cloth to remove black powder fouling. Then apply lemon oil (available at the grocery store) to the wood, inside and out. This will keep the wood from drying and warping.

6. Consistency is the key to accuracy in all firearms, and these revolvers are no exception.
Use a separate powder measure or flask with screw-on powder measure to charge the chambers with powder. Trying to guess the amount of powder by looking at its level in the chambers is very inconsistent.
After charging the chambers, seat a felt wad (commercially available or hand-punched) with your thumb into the mouth of each chamber. Then seat the wad firmly onto the powder with the rammer in a separate operation.
It's much harder to seat a ball if it also has to push the wad down and compress the powder. This resistance can deform your ball.
.36-caliber wads may be cut from stiff felt with a 3/8-inch hole punch. Cut .44 wads from a .45-caliber wad punch, sold by Buffalo Arms of Sandpoint, Idaho.
The limp felt sold in hobby shops is unsuitable for wads. I use the nail-on felt weatherseal sold by Frost King of Mahwah, N.J. or Sparks, Nev., and sold in most hardware stores. Sold in a 17-foot roll, 1-1/4" wide and 3/16 inch thick for less than $3, this will provide you with hundreds of wads.
After seating all wads, seat the balls. Each ball should be tight enough to shave a small ring of lead from its diameter upon seating. If it doesn't, a larger ball may be needed.
In the chambers of my own Colt Navy, the standard .375 inch ball is nearly a slip-fit. Therefore, I have to cast my own balls of .380 inch for a proper fit.
Recently, I purchased 1,000 .380-inch diameter balls from www.warrenmuzzleloading.com for less than $70. This company makes very good balls, without the bothersome sprue.
If you're using cast balls that have a sprue or teat from casting, center this sprue UP in the cylinder. It is difficult to get the sprue mark perfectly centered in the chamber, when viewing from the side, so I remove the cylinder when possible for this operation.
In my Navy, I can set three sprued balls in place with a light tap from a brass hammer (never use ferrous metal, as it may cause sparks). This light tap keeps them in place and from falling out when I replace the cylinder.
Then I replace the cylinder into the Navy and seat the three balls with the rammer. My Remingtons will only allow two balls at a time to be tapped in because the frame is in the way.
If possible, use a mould that doesn't create sprues (Lee makes them), or use swaged lead balls. It will eliminate centering the sprue mark.

7. Don't change components indiscriminately.
Caps differ remarkably. I have had my best grouping with Remington No. 10 caps in the Navy, and CCI No. 11 caps in the Remington .36 and .44 calibers. Some nipples prefer No. 10 caps, others prefer No. 11. If the cap is a snug fit and bottoms out on the nipple, that's the one to go with.
I pinch the cap together a bit, into an elliptical shape, to make it cling better to the nipple. I wish some manufacturer would market elliptically-shaped caps. Revolver and rifle shooters usually pinch their caps, so why have them round?
Use lead as soft as possible, pure lead if you can find it, if you cast your own. Harder lead bullets are not nearly as accurate and are much more difficult to ram down into the chamber. I've heard that shooters experimenting with Linotype and similarly hard alloys have bent screws in rammers because of the force required. There is no benefit from using hard bullets, and every disadvantage.
But if wheelweight lead is all you can find, use it. It's not hard enough to cause damage when seating. I once used it when it was all I could get. Accuracy was fine, but it caused leading in my revolvers (the only time I've ever seen leading in my revolvers).

8. Buy a revolver-loading stand. This holds the revolver upright while loading and gives you a much better "feel" for how much pressure you're applying to wads and projectiles as you seat them. It also stores the revolver upright, in a safe position, if you're not quite ready to fire.

9. Do not use greases or oils that are petroleum-based. The older black powder manuals suggest using automotive grease over the chambers of revolvers. Don't do it. Petroleum-based greases somehow create a hard, tar-like fouling when combined with the black powder.
The proper grease or oil is animal or vegetable-based, such as Crisco, canola, beeswax, sunflower, commercial lard, mutton tallow and similar substances.

My own patch, wad and bullet lubricant is a 19th century recipe, found in a 1943 issue of the American Rifleman.
The recipe is:
1 part paraffin (I use canning paraffin, found in grocery stores)
1 part mutton tallow (sold by Dixie Gun Works)
1/2 part beeswax (available at hobby and hardware stores)
All measures are by weight, not volume. I use a kitchen scale to measure 200 grams of paraffin, 200 grams of mutton tallow and 100 grams of beeswax. This nearly fills a quart Mason jar.
Place the Mason jar in a pot or coffee can with about 4 inches of boiling water. This gives a double-boiler effect, which is the safest way to melt waxes and greases.
When the ingredients in the jar are thoroughly melted, stir well with a clean stick or a disposable chopstick. Remove from water and allow to cool at room temperature (trying to speed cooling by placing in the refrigerator may cause the ingredients to separate).
This creates a lubricant nearly identical to a well-known black powder lubricant sold commercially.
To use, place a small amount of the lubricant in a clean tuna or cat food can. Melt in a shallow pan of water. Drop your revolver wads or patches into the can and stir them around with a clean stick until all wads or patches are saturated. Allow to cool then snap a plastic lid (available in the pet food aisle) over the can and store in a cool, dry place. This keeps dust and crud out and retains the lubricant's natural moistness.
I don't bother to squeeze out the excess lubricant from patches or wads but use them as-is.

This is an excellent bullet lubricant for all black powder uses. I also use it for patches in my .50-caliber muzzleloading rifle, and lubricating cast bullets for my .44-40 and .45-70 rifles. I've tried it with .357 Magnum bullets at up to 1,200 feet per second and it prevents leading. I haven't tried it at a higher velocity in the .357 or other calibers, but may someday.
I like the addition of paraffin in this bullet lubricant, because it seems to stiffen the felt wad somewhat, and scrapes out fouling better.
I've used the Ox-Yoke Wonder Wads in the past and they're good, but lack enough lubricant for my likes. I soak them in the above lubricant.
With a well-lubricated wad twixt ball and powder, you can shoot all day without ever swabbing the bore.

10. Find your most accurate load by firing at regular targets, at a known range (usually 25 yards) and keep meticulous notes. I use a large sheet of plywood as a holder, covered in butcher paper. Then I place the target in the middle of this. Having such a wide area will reveal any tell-tale flyers that show a load is inaccurate.
Holes in the white paper can be covered with a bit of cheap, narrow masking tape. Holes in the black may be covered with black target pasters (available at gun stores) or black electrician's tape.
I keep notes of each session, showing date, temperature, components, wind direction in relation to which direction I'm shooting and other factors. It's amazing how much this can mean down the road.
Many shooters think, "I'm just going to plink with it and I don't want to go through all that bother."
Perhaps. But you still want to hit that can, don't you? A little tedious work at the beginning will determine your most accurate load --- and result in a lot of cans lying label-down in the dust.

11. Colt revolvers, whether original or reproductions, shoot high. They were made to hit dead-on at about 75 yards. My little Colt 1862 Pocket Model hits dead on at about 100-yards! Its groups cluster about 10 inches above the point of aim at 25 yards, from a benchrest. My Colt Navy hits about 6 inches high at 25 yards.
Reproduction Remingtons have tall front sights. This must be intentional, so they shoot low. This allows you to carefully file down the front sight, thus bringing the group up to hit dead-on at 25 or 50 yards (whichever you prefer).
However, do this filing at the range and only one swipe at a time on the front sight.
My Remington .44 shot about 14 inches low when I first got it. I've filed the front sight a bit, bringing it to shoot about 6 inches low at 25 yards from a benchrest.
I'm doing one pass of the file at a time to slowly bring it up. It's tedious work, but it assures that I'll have it dead-on eventually.
Shooting cap and ball revolvers is a fascinating, fun hobby. To keep everything together, buy a large fishing box with plenty of compartments. As time goes by, you'll find yourself adding more items and gadgets to the box. You may also buy other revolvers in different calibers, each requiring their own wads, balls and caps.

Aside from caps, balls, lubricants, wads and powder add the following to your box:
Small notebook and pencils.
Push-tacks for targets.
Fine-tip felt pen for writing on targets you wish to keep. The felt tip shows up better.
Screwdrivers.
Length of wooden dowel, to tap out a stuck bullet. For the .36-caliber, use 5/16 dowel. For the .44, use 7/16 dowel.
Small brass mallet.
Plenty of pre-cut patches for cleaning.
1/4" brass rod, about 5 inches long. If you get a ball stuck in a chamber without powder, remove the nipple. Insert the brass rod where the nipple was and tap out the ball.
Small spray bottle of soapy water for quick swabbing.
Masking tape and black electrician's tape or target pasters.
Q-Tips and pipe cleaners.
Nipple wrench.
Various powder measures. Lee makes a dipper set that is very good. I have an excellent pistol measure that adjusts from 10 to 30 grains in 1-grain increments. Alas, I can't remember who made it.
Good-sized rag to wipe hands.
Pistol loading stand.
New nipples, set of six. I always replace nipples as a set. This way, if one starts to go bad I can figure the others are not far behind.
White grease pencil, to number chambers on the cylinder. This can show you which chamber is the most accurate and it's not a permanent marking.
Sight Black by Birchwood Casey. This spray-can puts a thin layer of jet-black carbon on your sights. This is particularly useful on Colt revolvers with their brass bead that glares in the sun. Sight Black is easily rubbed or washed off.
Film container to put scrap lead in. I save my lead shavings and any recovered balls for the melting pot. Stingy me, I know!
Spare parts such as mainspring, trigger spring and so on. This can save you weeks of waiting for a new spring.

It took me years to learn much of what I've offered here. I have no doubt you'll profit from it.
 

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Proper use of....

Great post Gatofeo, you share a lot pf usable info. I shot cap and ball a ton 30+ years ago when I was a college student. Since then I got involved with other things and only recently have returned and now I'm like a kid in a candy store---just shootin away and having a great time! Your right about the use of petrolium based lubes, the insructions distributed with the guns suggested petrolium based auto grease or vasoline from the drug store. Also in my recollection no one had heard of or used felt wads. Todays way keeps fouling down much better and makes an afternoon of shooting go a lot smoother. Thanks for sharing your experience!

Buckshot Liam
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Actually, the use of greased wads twixt ball and powder is likely very old.
The late gun writer Elmer Keith (1898-1983) was raised around Helena, Montana.
In his 1956 book, "Sixguns" he devotes a chapter to shooting the cap and ball revolvers. Keith's first revolver was a Colt 1851 Navy, which he began carrying when he was 14 (in 1912).
He knew many Civil War veterans, noting that the Helena area seemed to have a high population of them, from both sides.
Keith recommended using a felt wad twixt ball and powder, lubricated with melted tallow and beeswax.
"If you do not have the wax, then deer, elk, beef or mutton tallow will do," Keith wrote.
Keith noted that old Civil War veterans showed him how to properly load a cap and ball revolver. Though he didn't specify it, I suspect this meant the use of greased wads under the ball as well.
It's important to remember that most Civil War soldiers used factory-made paper cartridges in their revolvers and these did not have a felt wad.

Let's hear what Keith has to say:
"During the heyday of the percussion revolver, paper cartridges were furnished ... Conical Colt bullets were used in these paper cartridges with a rebated heel, leaving room to glue the tip of the paper cylinder to the base of the bullet. The powder charge was poured in the other end of the rolled paper cylinder which was folded over a couple of times to seal it, the bullet was dipped in melted wax or tallow and the cartridge was complete."
"These conical pointed bullets gave more range and penetration than round balls, but never were as accurate in our (Keith's) guns, nor did they kill game as well as the round ball."

The use of paper cartridges greatly speeded reloading, a critical concern in combat. Most of the war's revolvers undoubtedly contained conical bullets, not the round ball, as evidenced by battlefield archaeology.
Round balls were not issued for revolvers. If you wanted them, you had to cast your own over a campfire.
I've done this, and it's a pain in the patoot! It would have been easier to get a resupply of paper cartridges with the conical bullet.
Keith was often in awe of the pistol-handling capabilities of these veterans, many of them in their 80s. He writes of witnessing one veteran riding a horse at full speed and emtpying a cap and ball revolver into a fencepost without a miss!
Some of these old soldiers knew their pistols. I suspect that they may have taken the trouble to cast balls for their first load in their revolver, saving the paper cartridges for a fast reload.
Keith said one old veteran told him that the conical bullets were faster to load, but the round ball hit a lot harder and took all the fight out of an opponent.
If they were using round balls, which were not issued, then they were probably using a lubricated felt wad under it too.
I've also heard of soldiers dripping candle wax or beeswax over the seated projectile, and around the cap. This was done not for lubrication, but to ensure that moisture didn't enter the chambers and deaden the load.
A felt wad greased with tallow or beeswax would be an effective barrier against moisture entering from the front of the chamber.
Some years ago, I loaded my .36-caliber Navy with a full charge, greased wad, round ball and caps, then placed the cylinder outside for six months. Spring, a hot summer, and early fall came and went.
Then I fired the cylinder. It fired fine, and I could tell no loss in power due to the lubricant soaking into the black powder, as many have claimed.
I know that cylinder must have reached air temperature (100 F or so) but the loads were unaffected. Nor was there any rust in the chambers where the powder sat.
There are many cap and ball revolvers with loads still in them. I've seen them myself, in museums. It would be interesting to see whether the remnants of a greased, felt wad is between the lead ball and powder in some of them.
 

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WOW!!! This is by far the best, most complete information, I have ever come across on bp revolver shooting. Thanks for taking the time to type all this great information for us beginners. I'm printing a copy to add to my black powder notebook. Thanks again for your post!
 

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THANK YOU FOR ALL THE INFO

Thanks gentlemen for all the info posted here, I just started in C & B revolver shooting...i have saved your posts and printed them out for me to try with my latest new toy i bought at Cabelas, a Pietta 1858 Texas New Army 44 cal ( brass frame )...i am using .451 balls can i use the .457 through my modl?

:eek:
 

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loading

457 may be hard on the loading lever of a Pietta, but 454 might well shoot better than 451.
 

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Re: loading

Flint said:
457 may be hard on the loading lever of a Pietta, but 454 might well shoot better than 451.

Flint, I just ordered a loading tool, but i shall try the .454 first and see if it'll tighten the groups some.

Thanks again for the information. :D
 

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Too much great info to have this thing buried!

Jim
 

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DakotaElkSlayer said:
Too much great info to have this thing buried!

Jim
+1! So here's a bump to bring it back around. As I first read this most excellant post, I was almost discouraged about getting any deeper into BP shooting. Then I realized that my approach and mindset towards shooting BP was based on cartridge shooting. Totally different animals. Yeah, there's a lot more set up and a lot more clean up, and not as much actual shooting, but what a great way to relax and get lost on the sport itself. Same as fly fishing and fly tying. Slow down, enjoy retouching the past and learn something new while improving your skills. Perfect for the hectic self-induced pace of our lives today. Just my humble opinion. Thanks, Gatofeo, and the others that contributed here. I just got my first Cap and ball, a Pietta Confederate Navy .44, and I have the opportunity to buy a very slightly used Ruger Old Army .457 for $300, or a straight trade for one of my fly fishing float tubes. A whole new hobby has been opened for me, thanks to this great post! Time to put in a little overtime to fund the necessary possibles. Peace and God bless, Wolfsong.
 

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I know this is old, but what a great post for a newbie like me. Maybe a mod could make this a sticky. It helped me alot to understand and the cleaning of the gun is outstanding! Is all this info still up to date?
 

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radio2 said:
I know this is old, but what a great post for a newbie like me. Maybe a mod could make this a sticky. It helped me alot to understand and the cleaning of the gun is outstanding! Is all this info still up to date?

Gatofeo said:
Some of you may profit from my 30 years of shooting black powder revolvers.
...
Snip!
...

It took me years to learn much of what I've offered here. I have no doubt you'll profit from it.
Yep. Still good stuff.
 

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I started with a double barrel caplock pistol 40 yrs ago. Wish I had that info then, a whole lot of experimenting to get passable shots. I didn't mess with Bp for 20 years and now am getting back into it with a Ruger OA and 3 rifles. I also downloaded that info and will put it to good use.
 

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WOW thanks for the great scoop. I will be getting a pair of Uberti 1858's in the near future and this is most helpfull.
 

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An excellent post with a wealth of information. I have a stainless ROA that I have shot a couple of times. I wasn't aware of the lapping of the barrel and cylinder chambers was such an important step. I will try that out this morning and see how much it will help.
 

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:)HEY BIGBORE,,how ya likin' that ROA,,I am thinkin' on gettin' one as I only like cap&ball single actions,,and I like to shoot them alot,,,as in many many many shots,,the$$$seems steep,,but if they last,,Iguess it's worth it.
TO ALL,,,I never thought much of c&b revolvers til I had one,,aint looked at other single actions since,,,,owned '51,,'60,,'58,,and a '49 that I am converting to .32 colt or some such.Once I saw how a .44 lead ball tore up a old rock maple solidbody elect. guitar at 25 long paces,,,I was hooked!!!!! ;D ;D
 

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Gatofeo, you've given us all a real wealth of info on C&P revolvers, thanx a bunch! I intend to get a .45 Colt Cartridge Conversion Kit from R&D as soon as it's available, (about 3 months), but until then, I'll make use your wisdom. I remember reading in Mr. Keith's, "Sixguns", that even the 36 caliber guns were effective manstoppers. Wild Bill's favorite! Look what he did with them! Thanx again, jd45
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes, the cleaning of the revolver is still up to date.
As I noted, I've tried a bunch of the wonder cleaners and found them lacking. Nothing like immersion in hot, soapy water and scrubbing with plastic or natural bristles (never metal!) will loosen and float away fouling.
However, I should amend my advice a bit:
If you live in a dry climate like I do (the remote desert of Utah) you can get by for months by cleaning the bore and chambers with damp patches, followed by dry patches. Then oil both bore and chamber with olive oil.
Fouling around the frame and barrel can be wiped off with a damp cloth, followed by a dry cloth and light oiling.
In such climates, there is little need to get into the guts of the revolver each and every time. But I hasten to add that it also depends on how many shots you've fired. If you've only put a few cylinderfuls through the pistol, there's no need for a complete cleaning each time --- in a dry climate.
But if you've spent hours and hours at the range, and the innards are heavily caked with fouling, then it's time to give it the maximum cleaning.
It's a judgement call on your part. If you have any doubts, clean it thoroughly as outlined above.
In damp climates (Seattle, Charleston, Cleveland, Asotia, etc.) you won't want to leave fouling on bare metal for long or you'll have rust in a few hours or days.
In such climates, you would do well to purchase a stainless steel revolver if you can. The Remington pattern in stainless steel is common but the Colt pattern in stainless steel is not often seen. You may have to look a while, and pay a premium price, to find a Colt pattern in stainless steel.
But stainless steel is more forgiving. Stainless steel will rust over time, but it may take years.
But yes, soapy water is still the best cleaner I've found. In my range box I have a little spray bottle of it. Sometimes I add a little alcohol to cut the grease but it's not mandatory. Soapy water is cheap, natural and works well. The wunderpotions sold commercially range from "no better than plain water" to "equal to hot soapy water but no better" in my estimation.
I save my money and use soap and water.
 

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Thanks for the tips Gatefeo.......I learned something today. Will implement some of your wisdom
Rick
 

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Gatefeo, thanks very much. Great information. I had got out of blackpowder but you inspired me get back into it. People like yourself are what make this forum so great... Rick
 

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Gatefeo:
I wanted to ask one more question about the cleaning procedure. I'm probably going to get my first C&B, an 1858 Rem, for Christmas and have never shot one before. I've been shooting flintlocks for several years, so most of the basic blackpowder shooting procedures are familiar to me.

You had mentioned not having to detail strip the pistol unless it was either in a very humid/damp climate or had been shot for several hours. I was wondering if my typical approach to cleaning my flintlock will work with a C&B pistol or if it will need more attention.

When shooting my flinter, I average between 10 and 15 shots per session. To clean it, I use my cleaning solution to clean the bore and touch hole area. If I've fired more than a couple of shots, remove the lock and scrub it with a toothbrush, then dry and lightly oil with RemOil or Hoppes Gun oil. Typically, I only disassemble the lock once a year or so. I live in Michigan and shoot often in Tennessee, both of which have moderate amounts of humidity.

Is this type of procedure likely to be effective on a pistol, or is it likely to need more frequent disassembly when cleaning than I'm used to for my flinter? Thanks for all the great info.
 
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