kammi: what load are you using that is giving you a problem? and are you just having a ejection problem not accuracy? Are you using small base dies as you need them to for the auto-loaders to function the best. 
JIM
JIM
Reloading for Semi-Autos
Does anyone have any suggested starting loads for 30.06 165/180 grain bullets for a Mod. 7400 Remington. I had no reliable success last year at all and ended up going back to factory ammo for dependable ejection performance. I had some very limited success with IMR4895, but nothing else. And even then it wasn't ejecting every time, maybe every third shot it would stove pipe or return to the chamber. I scale measure every charge. :? Any suggestions?
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I used to hunt with a Remington 742, and found that I had to use a faster powder than was normally used in the 30-06.
The load I used in my rifle was 47.2 grains of IMR 4320. This would give me 2470 fps with a 180 grain bullet. I loaded Ballistic tips for deer, and and would get bang/flop performance with any decent hit. This velocity is well below what most guys tout as 30-06 velocity, but it falls right around that of the .303 British and a little better than the .300 Savage, which are both well known deer getters.
IMR 4064 is also used by many people who load for Remington autos.
The load I used in my rifle was 47.2 grains of IMR 4320. This would give me 2470 fps with a 180 grain bullet. I loaded Ballistic tips for deer, and and would get bang/flop performance with any decent hit. This velocity is well below what most guys tout as 30-06 velocity, but it falls right around that of the .303 British and a little better than the .300 Savage, which are both well known deer getters.
IMR 4064 is also used by many people who load for Remington autos.
loaded some 4 some buddie's try some h-414
3006
Seee if you can find loading data for the Garand.
Seee if you can find loading data for the Garand.
Loading for the 7400...
740's & 7400s are difficult to load for. Shucks, they don't even much like factory ammo much less reloads. I had some success however loading 165 gr. Sierra spitzers ahead of 46.0 gr.'s of IMR 3031. I think 3031 is a muchoverlooked powder for the 30-06. Start at 44.0 and go up .5 gr. at a time.
740's & 7400s are difficult to load for. Shucks, they don't even much like factory ammo much less reloads. I had some success however loading 165 gr. Sierra spitzers ahead of 46.0 gr.'s of IMR 3031. I think 3031 is a muchoverlooked powder for the 30-06. Start at 44.0 and go up .5 gr. at a time.
Sounds like your loads are NOT generating enough chamber pressure to fully operate your rifle's semi-automatic action. Semi-autos (aka "self-loaders") tend do EXACTLY what your rifle is doing with "light loads"... and, of course, THAT is exactly what "starting loads" are... LIGHT LOADS!
If you don't want to ruin cartridge cases, you should "single load" the rifle (manually load one round at a time by hand) while "working up" your hunting load... keeping an eye out for "pressure signs".
You will probably need to get well BEYOND the "starting loads" and "work up" a load that is closer to the "maximum SAFE load". I see no reason why your rifle shouldn't work just fine with reloads IF your reloads generate the amount of pressure your rifle's action was designed to function.
I'm NOT suggesting you START with near maximum loads, but I think you may have to "work up" fairly CLOSE to maximum SAFE loads in order to fully operate your semi-auto action.
Since your rifle is operating properly and without problems using factory loads, that tells you that your low-pressure loads are very likely the problem.
Make SURE you FULL-LENGTH resize your cartridge cases... this is necessary for semi-automatic, pump and lever-action rifles.
Also be SURE your primers are fully-seated and NOT sticking up above the base of the cartridge case. While it is important that primers in cartridges used in ALL types of action should be well-seated, it is even MORE critical for semi-autos due to the usually more violent operation of the action compared to a bolt-action.
Jim (jhm) ask a good question... what load(s) are you using... I.E., what powder and how much of it are you loading?
Good Hunting!
Strength & Honor,
Ron T.
If you don't want to ruin cartridge cases, you should "single load" the rifle (manually load one round at a time by hand) while "working up" your hunting load... keeping an eye out for "pressure signs".
You will probably need to get well BEYOND the "starting loads" and "work up" a load that is closer to the "maximum SAFE load". I see no reason why your rifle shouldn't work just fine with reloads IF your reloads generate the amount of pressure your rifle's action was designed to function.
I'm NOT suggesting you START with near maximum loads, but I think you may have to "work up" fairly CLOSE to maximum SAFE loads in order to fully operate your semi-auto action.
Since your rifle is operating properly and without problems using factory loads, that tells you that your low-pressure loads are very likely the problem.
Make SURE you FULL-LENGTH resize your cartridge cases... this is necessary for semi-automatic, pump and lever-action rifles.
Also be SURE your primers are fully-seated and NOT sticking up above the base of the cartridge case. While it is important that primers in cartridges used in ALL types of action should be well-seated, it is even MORE critical for semi-autos due to the usually more violent operation of the action compared to a bolt-action.
Jim (jhm) ask a good question... what load(s) are you using... I.E., what powder and how much of it are you loading?
Good Hunting!
Strength & Honor,
Ron T.
I don't know about this being a light load thing really. I routinely load cast bullets with 4895 for my m14 and have never had a problem. even as low as 1800 fps. He may have a mechanical problem or dirt or crud where it doesnt need to be. I would recommend load data for a garand but I am not real familiar with this particular rifle either. My sks rifles don't mind light cast loads either. Who really knows all guns have their little quirks. I would do a thorough cleaning to start with on it though.
7400 Loads
The new Lyman manual #48, suggests for 150-165 grain bullets use 4895 or 4064 (for Garand loads). Heavier bullets seem to require quicker powder. I just may get this straight yet. Thanks for the advice. This requires a little more brain power. Makes it a little more fun to get it right. Ken
The new Lyman manual #48, suggests for 150-165 grain bullets use 4895 or 4064 (for Garand loads). Heavier bullets seem to require quicker powder. I just may get this straight yet. Thanks for the advice. This requires a little more brain power. Makes it a little more fun to get it right. Ken
I load for a friends 748 and use a 150g Speer BT, WLR primer, WW or RP cases with 57.5 grains of IMR4350 and crimped with a Lee factory crimp die. Out of his rifle they chrono 2750 and group in about a inch, they also shoot good in his A-Bolt. Have never had a ejection problem with this load in other rifles that it's been tried in either. I think you may want to pull off your fore end and check the gas port for carbon build up. I've cleaned up a few of these for other people and they can get kinda cruddy/gooey in the port/slide area. Just somthing to check.
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