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rem700 triggers

I hesitate to judge any gunsmith on the small amount of info we have here. Most Remington 700 triggers can be safely taken to 3-3 1/2 pounds. Some can be taken to lower weights but they will eventually cause problems at these lower weights. Many gunsmiths are hesitant to adjust triggers at all and those that do are very conservetive. That plus the fact that the remington trigger has some concerns as to it's design and has been the subject of several litigations recently I would be very careful with DIY trigger jobs.. There have been many horror stories about remington quality control and you may have one. If 4 1/2 pounds is the least pull the trigger can SAFELY be set to, you really have only 2 choices, try a different smith(Better test that trigger for safety yourself when it comes back) or replace with an after market trigger... of which there are many. I've had good luck with Timney or for lighter pull weights Jewel. Light pulls on rifles even if the trigger works, are not for use with gloves, cold hands or anything that may affect your ability to feel the triggers resistance. If a trigger doesn't always reset the striker it may also cause an accidental discharge...THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS!!!!! Caution is best..good luck from the gunnut69
 

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rem700 triggers

I would NOT take the advice of "Guest" and do it yourself. Let a competent gunsmith do it.

I don't know why your gunsmith can't do this for you. Go to another gunsmith. All of my M700 were taken to COMPETENT gunsmiths who did trigger jobs and set the pull at 3 lbs - ON THE NOSE!

Zachary
 

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rem700 triggers

I've had many Rem triggers tuned by 'smiths even though I understand it's not rocket science. Doesn't matter to me. It's cheap and it's one less thing for me to fret over.

One thing I have been told when getting some of my newer Rems back is that the quality of the parts involved sometimes doesn't allow the degree of tuning we're used to. Lots of plated pot metal in there, I understand.

If that VS is a lefty .223 and you still aren't happy with it, by all means LET ME KNOW, huh?

Redial
 

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rem700 triggers

Yes redail, there's a lot crap out there, parts like these should be forged! And case hardend properly(not "kasenit"). Most use tool steel...S&W used to forge their lock parts but some 'smiths tell me they don't now; and they are more difficult to tune...

If you are trying to find a good 'smith, see that he has a surfacegrinder in the shop. If he don't he's not gonna make a perfect job on a trigger!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
rem700 triggers

Hey WTell you don't need a surface grinder to do a trigger job on a M700.. Really can't think of any trigger I'd want to remove metal from at that rate. A stone (natural or ceramic) and an adjustable jig are all thats needed, at most. In most cases the Remington trigger and the M70s can be adjusted with only small hand tools(screw driver, wrench) and a efw small stones to polish. A good smith will always refuse to create a dangerous situation. No matter what the customer says, when the 'accident' happens that customer will yell the loudest that they don't remember any warning about a 'too light' trigger pull. Selective memory loss!! To get the lighter pull you wish you may have to change out the trigger to an after market unit. If the factory trigger follows the trend I've seen of late, the trigger return spring is way too heavy. Many smiths hesitate to change to non factory standard parts. Ask the smith why he couldn't go any lower. If he says it wouldn't adjust down any further, find a better smith or swap triggers. Good luck from the gunnut69
 

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rem700 triggers

I meant a toolgrinder, sorry. And preferably you should have a microscope so that you get the angles exactly right. Standard toolmaking procedures! No man can hold any tool steady enough. Of course fixtures can be made for hand tools, but my point being; any gunsmith having a good reputation will shortly invest in this equipment (not expensive), since it will save him money! A tyro probably wouldn't.
 

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rem700 triggers

Hmmmm...

The Rem 700 striker will often not engage if the bolt handled is merely lifted and then closed without moving it rearward.

Mine exhibited that problem even when the trigger mech. was set with tons of creep and tension. Must have been a mismatched set of tolerances there, methinks.

I set it to 2.75# then used the trusty Clear Nail Polish to loch the setscrews down...then expected it to remain cocked only when the bolt was cycled rearward....since it passed all safety tests, I'd say it worked for me!

But if you are not in a way of understanding such things, buy a Timney and pay a competent 'smith to tinker for you!

Regards,

FastVFR
 
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