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Whell,since I might inherret more trouble than you have(that new Yugo) I have red all the posts again.

This you said above ..This problem is most likely mechanical. It's as if the action is not locking"
I'll try to backup my previous post.
If there is a problem with the chamber I suppose it is in the neck part because the resized empty case fits but reloaded not.
Winchester ammo might be on the bottom side of th SAAMI specs while your reloads are on the max side.This might cause the cartridge not to seat perfect in the chamber causing your problem.
If none of all the advise solve the problem,take it to a gunsmith and let him run a chamber reamer through it again. It might be a taperd neck in the chamber. A very wild guess,but I am desperate for that Yugo
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I had the barrel off the action. Twenty Remington cases were FL sized in the Lyman die. The die was cleaned with brake cleaner before use. Necks were lubed inside with the Imperial powder. The wax was used externally, The die was turned down so there was no play. That is firmly against the shell holder.

The Lawnmower is broken down so there's time to work on this project.I remember having similar problems with a vintage Contender that would not work on a loaded cartridge. I'd send the gun back each time. That was over thirty years ago.

A Lee trimmer was used to clean up the length. Cased have not been champhered yet. A sized case would go into the chamber with no problems. I wanted to make sure the cases and loaded rounds were OK. I'd do back flips not to have a local gunsmith work on my rifle. I see Dykem in the future on this project.

I'll probably have to welsh on the Yugo since there probably none in the US that are not in pieces. Getting a Yugo together would be like the Johnny Cash country song about them building a Cadillac.
 

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Based on what you are saying, the only thing that makes sense is that you somehow have a narrow chamber/throat area in the barrel and the bullet is expanding the brass a little too much to get past the tight spot and fully chamber, making it so the action doesn’t completely lock up. I don’t know how the factory load fired, but you said it did. Does a factory load still fire?

This could also explain the blown primer in a load that was well below max.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
This could also explain the blown primer in a load that was well below max.
This very well could have been a reloader's error. I rather not spend time figuring out the blown primer. I feel like we are starting anew. I'm fairly comfortable that we will collectively come up with an answer. I googled the topic of the misfires. What I found was not very helpful.

Right now we are preparing brass carefully as a starting point. I headed down shortly to prime these cases. This famine has put me in a bad place for .224 bullets. While I have the broken down the bore will be cleaned thoroughly. I'd bet the gun has not been used much. Thanks for you comments.
 

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try switching primers especially if your using ccis. Try a fed primer once. Most problems ive found with guns not wanting to go off were traced down to firing pins not hitting hard enough. Ive even seen cases that it looked like the firing pin was hitting the primer hard enough but it wasnt. That our you could possibly have bad primers. I took out a new model 70 280 to work up loads and was having missifres aobut every 4th round. couldnt figure it out. The primer looked like it was hit hard. Ive rarely had primers go bad but this brass was sized and primed about 5 years ago when i got rid of my last 280 and was sitting high and dry in a coffee can and those primers for some reason went bad. My guess is humidity because i heat with a non vented propane heater and they give off alot of moisture. First thing id try is a new pack of fed primers. They are usually the easiest to light off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm not counting out anything. I am fortunate enough to have both Winchester and CCI primers right now. When I run my test both those brands will be used. I have not seen Federal Primers in the stores around here ever. This firing with a primed case and not with a loaded case is a mystery. This is not a good time to be looking for any sort of primer. Thanks again.
 

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ive had probably over a 150 rifles in my days. Ive rarely seen headspacing problems. Worse case is a gun or two had short brass life becuse of it. After 3 or so shootings they tended to split at the rim. Make sure when you set your sizing die you only size enoght that the round chambers with just a tad of resistantance. Then take on of the fired rounds and try to chamber the brass in another gun of the same caliber. If it chambers its probably not head space thats your issue. One other thing that can happnen if you have a tight neck or dont chamfer your necks is you can actually push the neck back when you seat your bullet. But if youve chamfered your necks and tried two different seating dies i doubt thats your problem either. If anything what that usually causes is a bulge where the neck was pushed back and they wont chamber because of it. Most times too that happens with a flat based bullet not a boat tail. But BLOWN primers? About the only thing that will explain that is an overload. In all my years the only thing thats ever caused a blown primer is a mistaken overload or a primer pocket thats worn out and loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The cause of the blown primer may be the reloaders problem. It's kind of the done deal. The real concern is not firing at all right now. I will repeat working up loads again using the same or similar bullet and the Accurate and also the Shooters world powder. I am skeptical about pushing the shoulder back seating bullets. My cases are always champhered. That may account for my not having to deal with that problem. These cases that I have prepared have yet to be primed..

I have formed many cases where the shoulder is pushed back. That can work you. The main culprit is jamming the case mount into the crimp are in the bullets seating die. This does push the should er back with the bulge at the base of the shoulder. That will ruin one's day. Thanks for you help.
 

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if its not firing even with factory ammo id be looking at your firing pin or hamer. Not real familar with the single shot break opens or if it has a transfer bar ect. But my guess is it somewhere in those.
 

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by the way your as bad as me being up this early. Im usually up and going before 4am. Never was a sleeper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
by the way your as bad as me being up this early. Im usually up and going before 4am. Never was a sleeper.
You noticed the disrupted sleep. This thing happens here. I wake up early several times during the week. Normally, my day starts at 6:30. This time it was earlier.

What I am trying to do is remove the reloaded cartridges as key part of the problem. I'd say that if there was a problem with the ammo it would be with OD of the neck of a loaded round. The run is being made up with previously reloaded Remington brass. I did snap the rifle closed when trying to shoot.. We'll check the neck OD as soon as the rounds are loaded. That would be .254 and the mouth and .256 and the base of the neck. The diameter of the case at the base of the shoulder is .414. Check me out, please. The .414 would a clue if the should was moved seating a bullet.

I can do a sulfur cast of the chamber but not right now.

What's a real killer of having a combination of cartridge problems and broken or bent parts. Next comes some shooting. I these cases are not right it was because two sets of sizing dies were out of spec's.

I have found several threads on this forum. Most of the comments had do with the guns coming open. As you may have guessed once I get hold of something it hard to let go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
The cases are right. Chamber on the gun is small.
Maybe,but the only thing I can control to some degree is the ammo. Gun worked OK then it didn't. Right now, I agree with the possibility of a minimum chamber. We'll know shortly.
 

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I know when I had my 22-250 rechambered to AI I fireformed the brass and had to keep a close eye on the reloads as some of them would push the case out below the new shoulder. Kurt
 

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Have any fired cases to measure? This would tell you something about the size of your chamber.
 

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The cases are right. Chamber on the gun is small.
usualy that prevents chambering. It doesnt stick a case. Once a round is chambered and shot it initialy is blown out to chamber size then kind of springs back a tad. Ive got guns with tight chambers that need small base dies but once the round is sized and loaded and shot you can easily extract it and even put the fired case back in and close the bolt on it easily. Its kind of like fire forming in reverse. Most of the problems with tight chambers will show up when shooting brass thats been fired in a larger chamber and not sized down enough for your tight one. Ive even got a 300 H&H with a bit to much headspace. If i cam over my press and full lenght size every time brass life is usually only 2 or 3 firings before they split at the base from stretching. But if i shoot the first round and only size enough to allow the bolt to close its no different then if a guy had shot factory ammo in a AI chamber. First shot fireforms and after that brass is fine for the chamber.
 

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usualy that prevents chambering. It doesnt stick a case. Once a round is chambered and shot it initialy is blown out to chamber size then kind of springs back a tad. Ive got guns with tight chambers that need small base dies but once the round is sized and loaded and shot you can easily extract it and even put the fired case back in and close the bolt on it easily. Its kind of like fire forming in reverse. Most of the problems with tight chambers will show up when shooting brass thats been fired in a larger chamber and not sized down enough for your tight one. Ive even got a 300 H&H with a bit to much headspace. If i cam over my press and full lenght size every time brass life is usually only 2 or 3 firings before they split at the base from stretching. But if i shoot the first round and only size enough to allow the bolt to close its no different then if a guy had shot factory ammo in a AI chamber. First shot fireforms and after that brass is fine for the chamber.
The hammer not functioning on a loaded round leads me to believe the round is not chambering properly. The gun is not locking up completely. Similar to how a bolt gun will not fire without the bolt completely closed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The jury is out on the cartridge/reloaded theory. I made up two dummy rounds with bullet and primer only. FL sized case primer and bullet. Same, Same, no go. I used one Remington case and one from Winchester. The firing pin strikes looked shallow. Short cases or long chamber are a possibility.

Some of the post from the past spoke of bent transfer bars. Not having a gauge visually the firing pin appeared to be intact.with plenty of protrusion. The cases I used for my test came from the Lee dies. Next, the same test will be done with cases sized in the Lyman FL die. If the results are the same we'll take a look inside. Thoughts on the transfer bar?
 

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You can tell if your transfer bar is malfunctioning by removing the barrel and lowering the hammer with the trigger pulled. Check the protrusion. I doubt if it’s that, though, since it will fire a primed case. I may have missed it, but how does it do with factory ammo?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Light strikes may be short case and/or long chamber. Shot Winchester factory very well. Handloads is the problem right now. This last little trial was with FL resized WW case and Winchester LRP. This thing is weird. No doubt about it.
 
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