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The jury is out on the cartridge/reloaded theory. I made up two dummy rounds with bullet and primer only. FL sized case primer and bullet. Same, Same, no go. I used one Remington case and one from Winchester. The firing pin strikes looked shallow. Short cases or long chamber are a possibility.

Some of the post from the past spoke of bent transfer bars. Not having a gauge visually the firing pin appeared to be intact.with plenty of protrusion. The cases I used for my test came from the Lee dies. Next, the same test will be done with cases sized in the Lyman FL die. If the results are the same we'll take a look inside. Thoughts on the transfer bar?
Bad idea. If it had fired you would have stuck a bullet in the bore.

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Nope, worked great. Evidently, you never had a misfire with a centerfire rifle. You may have been using hotter primers. :)
 

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First I thought the round does not chamber.Now there are slight dents on the primer....sounds like April fool😬😜how about comparitive measurements betwix Winchester ammo and your reloads.My only and last 2cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
First I thought the round does not chamber.Now there are slight dents on the primer....sounds like April fool😬😜how about comparitive measurements betwix Winchester ammo and your reloads.My only and last 2cents.
The round does chamber and the dent is light. Primed cases will go off. I have been reloading since the late 70's and have never run into anything like this. That's why I asked for input from others. Read more carefully.

At this point cases have be sized in two different name brand of dies. We have worked down to a defective chamber and/or mechanical problems. If the gun has a defective chamber it is to be a wall hanger. The jury is out on the other. We are going to look for Bubba next. Thanks for your input.
 

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The round does chamber and the dent is light. Primed cases will go off. I have been reloading since the late 70's and have never run into anything like this. That's why I asked for input from others. Read more carefully.

At this point cases have be sized in two different name brand of dies. We have worked down to a defective chamber and/or mechanical problems. If the gun has a defective chamber it is to be a wall hanger. The jury is out on the other. We are going to look for Bubba next. Thanks for your input.
🏳wallhanger wont do,just a chamber reamer or maybe a neck size die,but the answer would be in the measurements of the goes and no-goes?
 

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There was a time when we talked about trigger pulls and these issues. Some folks where not completely "pulling" the trigger or holding it rearward. These are not precision mechanisms.
CW
 
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I'm to the point of looking at the internals of the gun. I have shared repeatedly that the primed case will fire. The loaded round will not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
There was a time when we talked about trigger pulls and these issues. Some folks where not completely "pulling" the trigger or holding it rearward. These are not precision mechanisms.
CW
Take a look inside: That's worth following. Also, I going to hunt down the possibility of mechanical damage there or the hand of Bubba. Right now, we are where we were when we started. Something is not right.
 

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I'm to the point of looking at the internals of the gun. I have shared repeatedly that the primed case will fire. The loaded round will not.
that right there boggles my mind. Now a light primer hit will sometimes ingnite a primer but not well enough to make the gun go bang but if you are hearing the pop i doubt thats the case. Cant imagine other then bad powderf, bad primers or plugged flash holes that would make a gun light off a primer and not fire. id have seriouis doubts if its the internals. But then ive seen some strange things in the past and i dont know squat about those H&R single shots. Only ones ive ever owned were shotguns.
 

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Interesting problem. Before igniting the primer, the firing pin pushes the cartridge until it contacts the shoulder of the chamber. This uses some of the energy from the hammer spring, and more energy for a loaded cartridge than for an empty primed cartridge and the energy required also depends on the head space. Your hammer spring may be weak or the transfer bar may not be operating properly and reducing the spring's effect. You could rule out your handloads by seeing if factory ammo works. Good luck.
 

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Reading this thread from a reloading problem only perspective, there is one thing that stands out in my mind but it all depends on your dies designed function, how they are set and the brass. In my thoughts it occurs to me that your sizing die could be expanding the case mouth to accept a projectile which is a perfect fit for your chamber. Thus a sized, primed case goes off easily. Once you seat a bullet and crimp it, could it be setting the case neck back to spec diameter and thus allowing the shoulder of the cartridge to fully seat in the chamber? If the shoulder is set back just once by a badly adjusted die, the only way to reset the shoulder would be to fire form it. Most firearms have some type of extractor that holds the case against a bolt face. Handi-Rifles do not have this as a part of the breech face so it is a variable.

I had a 7.62x39 Handi that I had the same thing happen. I used teflon plumbing tape (thread tape) to wrap around the base of the cartridges in question to "hold" them out of the chamber to allow the cartridge to seat on the teflon so it would hold it against the breech face so they would fire.

As far as the "half cock" situation I have no idea about that.

BW

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I had a 7.62x39 Handi that I had the same thing happen. I used teflon plumbing tape (thread tape) to wrap around the base of the cartridges in question to "hold" them out of the chamber to allow the cartridge to seat on the teflon so it would hold it against the breech face so they would fire.
Yes, the difference may very well be the difference between case with and without a bullet. I do not crimp those bullets. Right, Bubba may have had at the springs in the gun.

I'll get into the insides of the gun. I'd like to take the gun down to see if there is any internal damage. The "half cock" was a description of the rebounding action. Thanks for sharing about the Teflon tape. I have been waiting for more examples like yours to show up. I was thinking about an "o" ring around the neck :oops:
 

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Nope, worked great. Evidently, you never had a misfire with a centerfire rifle. You may have been using hotter primers. :)
No, no misfires. But I did have a round with no powder in it and it did stick the bullet in the bore, just as I said.

Dummy cartridges get a primer OR a bullet, but never both because if the primer goes off the bullet will be forced into the lead/throat and stick in the rifling at the beginning of the bore.
 

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The only time I've had a failure to fire (consistently) was caused by a weak hammer spring and faulty transfer bar. Changed both and no more troubles.

JG, there is no rebound on an SB2 Receiver. That needs looking into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
JG, there is no rebound on an SB2 Receiver. That needs looking into.
Thanks everybody for your help. You are correct. My bad. The transfer bar does the work. I could not find any indication tampering. I'm going to doe another run of loads. Brass is ready to go. The gun did work with WW factory rounds. Gun would not fully work with handloads. Handloads is the place too start again. I going to hunt down headspace gauges locally. Parts replacing will be way down on the list.

There was a time when we talked about trigger pulls and these issues. Some folks where not completely "pulling" the trigger or holding it rearward. These are not precision mechanisms.
CW
This is a good point. This may be an operator problem. This would be a sensible avenue to go along with new reloads. Remember, these reloads worked in the 788.
It's the ammo, not the rifle.
This is where we are going. I have had that set of Lyman dies since when. Those dies have worked in two factory rifle and one custom rifle.

The best answers are the simplest. Thanks every body for the help. The jury is still deliberating on this one. Your comments gave direction to this undertaking. Take care and be safe.
 

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Keep us posted. It feels like we are all interested in how it turns out.
 

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I sure would like to see you remove the butt stock and confirm it is a SB2. Not sure you did this yet. Kurt
 
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Please excuse me if this has been answered - I have been following this with interest to see what turns up. One thing I don't recall seeing mentioned is hammer extension for a scope - is there one installed? If so remove it and give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Please excuse me if this has been answered - I have been following this with interest to see what turns up. One thing I don't recall seeing mentioned is hammer extension for a scope - is there one installed? If so remove it and give it a try.
In interesting idea. I'll be trying out a general of reloads probably the first of the week. The gun will be tried with extension on and off. I'll report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
The old Remington 22-250 brass was trashed. It hurts my heart but it needed to go. Made a dummy round that closed with a snap. Loaded up twenty rounds using 50gr. Hornady bullets and 34 grains of H-4885. The Winchester cases were sized on the Lee dies and loaded with the Lee seating die. Case mouths were evened up with a Lee trimmer and champhered with a Wilson deburring tool. I used a new Simmons 3-9x50 scope mounted using Burris Z rings. I"ll need to leave the hammer extension in place. There no way to cock that gun with that scope mounted. That scope will go if the gun works. Scope was a gift.

As to the receiver the numbers match with the 22-250 barrel.
 
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