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Ruger Vaquero disassembly instructions

5707 Views 14 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Charlie Detroit
I know there is a video on the disassembly of a RV but does anyone know of some written instrucions (with pictures?) somewhere out on the web. Hesitate to take mine apart without knowing I can get it back together
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Ranger, I don't know of any instructions. There is only thing ya really need to know about is the hammer spring. Remove the grips. Cock the hammer. If you look at the lower end of the rod the spring is around there will be a hole exposed. Put a pin in that hole. It needs to be something fairly strong. a finnishing nail, or one your wife has lying around somewhere for hanging picture frames. Lower the hammer till the spring tention will hold the spring. With that one item done, dissassembly is pretty much self explainatory.
As a post script, if ya really need more than that, I'll take mine apart and take pictures for ya. With the hammer spring thing done, you shouldn't have any problems
Thanks--understand about the hammer strip--saw the pictures on Capt. Baylor's web site. Will try on my own.
Larry Crow of Competitive Edge Gunworks has an excellent video showing complete disassembly, maintenance and reassembly of Vaqueros.
Camera work really lets you see what he's doing, and he is an outstanding teacher. You can get it from him at:

Don't know of anything in print or on the net covering Vaqueros.Sure seems like there ought to be something out there though doesn't it?
Those pics are something I could post so all can see if you don't have a place. If somebody wanted to take pics of a bunch of different models, rifles, etc. that might be useful to post pictures of.
:D Old Cane how ya doing this morning!? I had and idea! I'll take'em appart and you can take the pictures! Then, I'll take the pictures while YOU put'em back together!! :grin: Sounds fair to me!
Butler, sounds fair to me. Just make sure we don't play that game my wife plays with me where, when she takes something apart, she neglects to tell me she threw a piece away because it "looked bad or dirty". I'm confused enough just for waking up every day.

Marsh, I have a camera but no scanner. We are talking about some thing like Marauder has done but with some more models. Every brand/model has it's own quirks.
Cptn' Hamp ya need to add the url "tag" at the end as well as the front


I think you can just type the addy.

Appreciate the URL assist. Maybe I can get it right next time.

:D Captn', I want to make it as easy for ya as I can, you've got some intresting url's and I wanna see more!!!! :-D
AFter looking at the above posts I can understand why gunsmiths get the $$ the charge for their work. Right now I think I'll save my pennies and let a pro do the work.

Remember that the Ruger people don't have it quite right, either...they say to put the LONG grip screw in on the GATE SIDE of the frame, but a statistical average says that this is wrong about half the depends on which side of the frame the original assembler put the groove in the hammer pivot. If he put it in on the LEFT SIDE of the frame, that's where the long screw should be, too. It works fine on either side, BUT BOTH THE SCREW AND THE GROOVE THAT IT ENGAGES HAVE TO BE ON THE SAME SIDE. Otherwise, you'll bust yer screw and hate yourself.
Also, the leetle, teeny spring-and-plunger assemblies (one for pushing the pawl [hand] forward [in the back of the frame, just above the left rear frame screw] and one for tensioning the cylinder stop [bolt] in the front of the trigger guard) are kinda ticklish to get in...they're also difficult to not lose when you're opening things up. Be patient and careful. A little dab of heavyish grease helps, too.
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