[Mikey]

Model 38

Hay Dutch: I checked the serial number against the one on my Model 38 and it looks like yours was produced in the mid-90s. If it looks unfired it may well be. That Uncle Mike's Boot grip that came on those things refused to give me a good enough grip to shoot mine accurately - the previous owner may have had the same problem. Also, if he shot any plus Ps from it I'm certain the 'bark' added to the recoil 'bite' and the piece was probably kept loaded but not fired.

I really like mine and keep/carry it regularly. I put a set of Pachmyer grips on mine, dolled up the front sight blade with some white paint, and carry 200 grain SWCs over a factory charge of WW231 powder. Also did a trigger job. She's a great little piece and I can take her anywhere.

This is Mikey and I hope this helps.

ps - he shouldn't be selling that for more than $200. You can pay $325 new but no matter how many rounds have gone through it, it is used and the dealer probably didn't give more than $150 for it, if that.

 

[Mikey]

Stainless J-Frames

Guest: Did you say that your 649 is a stainless version of the concealed hammer Airweight Bodyguard Model 38? If so, a trigger job is pretty easy to do, whether the pistol is stainless steel or aluminum.

First thing you need to do is get a set of Wolfe Springs - they come in kits for the S&W J-frames, and are really easy to change. You might also wish to take an Arkansas stone to any of the parts, like the rebound bar and the hammer strut, to smooth out any rough edges or burrs. And the same thing for any places on the frame where those parts may ride. A good coating of engine oil helps lubricate the mechanism after you've finished. You may also want to stone off any grooves on the trigger or any sharp edges or tips, and look into a pair of grips that fit your hand better.

Most trigger jobs on S&Ws are completed using just new springs. If you add an Arkansas stone to that equation the job comes out much smoother.

Just my 2 cents worth. Mikey.