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I have 5 FA’s. One 83 in .44 mag and 4 model 97’s in .357 and .44 spl. The .357 will only chamber bullets of .357 diameter and all of the .44’s will only chamber bullets of .429 diameter. Cast .358 and cast .430 will not work so I’ve been loading jacketed bullets.
But there is one exception. .358 full wadcutters loaded flush will chamber.
 
2 of my 83's, the 357 mag and the 44 mag, both gave me fits with my cast bullets. The transition from the chamber to the throat is very abrupt on FA revolvers (told to me by FA and figured out by me fighting to get cast bullets chambered).

The 357 went back for a trigger job and while there they did something to the transition from chamber to throat in the cylinders. They would not open up the throats though. The 44 is still a tight SOB and requires a push to seat the loaded rounds when I use heavy LFN bullets. I don't need a hammer on the 44, just a push with my thumb. They both are fantastically accurate with my cast bullets (all LFN).

I size the 357's to .3575" and the 44's to dead on .430" measured with a quality micrometer. Any larger and it would be too much trouble.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
OP-Is there any update?
LG
Yes, I forced my stingy behind to buy a micrometer. My 0.357" bullets were actually 0.35766" (ish), closer to .358" than 0.357". When I swaged them with a Lee 0.357" swager, they ended up at 0.35758" (ish).

I'm going to need to get either a better swager, or get a supplier whose bullets are closer to spec (or both)
 
Those specs are fine, you are worrying about .0005 or less.
Not worth worrying about.
Put one of those bullets in the fridge for a couple of hours and check it.......
Lead bullets should be about .001 over bore dia.
LG
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Lead bullets should be about .001 over bore dia.
LG
The FA throats are around 0.3572"(ish) by my estimate - I used a 0.357" plus gauge and it went in but felt very snug. A 0.3576" bullet doesn't fit.

I spoke to FA and was told to use 0.357" bullets, not 0.3576"; they were very friendly but I got the feeling I was not the first person to talk to them about this. Given the cost of another cylinder and the fact that my FA out shoots all my other 357s, I'm looking solve this by getting bullets that fit the throats rather than fiddling with the revolver.
 
The FA throats are around 0.3572"(ish) by my estimate - I used a 0.357" plus gauge and it went in but felt very snug. A 0.3576" bullet doesn't fit.

I spoke to FA and was told to use 0.357" bullets, not 0.3576"; they were very friendly but I got the feeling I was not the first person to talk to them about this. Given the cost of another cylinder and the fact that my FA out shoots all my other 357s, I'm looking solve this by getting bullets that fit the throats rather than fiddling with the revolver.
You are not the first to ask them this.

Anyway, try this if you are of a mind to. Get a Lee bullet sizer die for 9mm (.355" +/-) and open it up to the exact size you need. I've done 3 so far, dies that is, and it takes a while but my bullets are sized to what I want them to be. I cast my own, and powder coat almost everything now, so I use the Lee dies more than my lubesizers.

There are plenty of how to videos about opening up the Lee dies. Now a fat bullet won't be a problem. You may size a few down too much, but you'll get there.

2 of my 83's are picky about fat bullets, but when you get them sized right, are stupid accurate. For me, I want the bullet to just be able to be pushed through the throat with a pencil. Not beat through the throat or fall through the throat, just pushed through.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
You are not the first to ask them this.

Anyway, try this if you are of a mind to. Get a Lee bullet sizer die for 9mm (.355" +/-) and open it up to the exact size you need. I've done 3 so far, dies that is, and it takes a while but my bullets are sized to what I want them to be. I cast my own, and powder coat almost everything now, so I use the Lee dies more than my lubesizers.

There are plenty of how to videos about opening up the Lee dies. Now a fat bullet won't be a problem. You may size a few down too much, but you'll get there.

2 of my 83's are picky about fat bullets, but when you get them sized right, are stupid accurate. For me, I want the bullet to just be able to be pushed through the throat with a pencil. Not beat through the throat or fall through the throat, just pushed through.
I've got a Lee .356" sizer which swages to 0.3566". I'd like to get it up to a few 10Ks over .357" - around .3572".

Looks easy enough in the videos. You just need to take it slow, do a little and measure. You can always take off more but you cannot add back!
 
It is easy. Give the die a very good polish after opening it up. I only use mine for powder coated bullets, but they work just fine with uncoated lubed bullets too.

Gotta make those bullets fit the throat if you're looking for precision. You already know what too big does, and too small isnt prefect either. Also, a LFN style can be more forgiving to those steep transitions in the FA cylinders. They are all I cast and shoot in any of my revolvers. The WFN styles have been more problematic for me accuracy wise, and I have zero SWC style molds around. Not saying a WFN or SWC won't shoot well, I just have great luck with all of my LFN molds.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
It is easy. Give the die a very good polish after opening it up. I only use mine for powder coated bullets, but they work just fine with uncoated lubed bullets too.

Gotta make those bullets fit the throat if you're looking for precision. You already know what too big does, and too small isnt prefect either. Also, a LFN style can be more forgiving to those steep transitions in the FA cylinders. They are all I cast and shoot in any of my revolvers. The WFN styles have been more problematic for me accuracy wise, and I have zero SWC style molds around. Not saying a WFN or SWC won't shoot well, I just have great luck with all of my LFN molds.
To polish the inside of the die, would it be prudent to used a dremel tool and some automotive or household polish?
 
Put a .40 bore mop in your drill motor and use some Turtle Wax polishing compound.
Toothpaste works also......
LG
 
What LG said or I use a worn bore brush with a patch coated in Flitz or any of the fine polishes. I do this after I get the ID where I want it. I highly doubt the tiny bit of extra metal removed will be noticed. While I get a nice smooth surface, I'm not trying for a mirror finish as I won't be able to see myself in it anyway....

As mentioned earlier, I PC my bullets and don't want to scratch the plastic after it's cured. It's been working nicely for a few years and will probably out last the rest of my shooting career.

FWIW, I use my cordless drill for all of this. Wish I had a lathe.

I just re-read your post. When I use a dremel on an ID polish or grind, mine tends to either bind or jump when it gets under a strain. I use an oak dowel split (cut actually) in the middle and automotive sand paper slid into the groove in my cordless drill on high speed. I start with 400 and end at 1000 grit. I run the paper wet with a wd40 type of lubricant.

Keep 10-15 fat bullets ready and check your progress with them. I don't reuse them while measuring. Also use a good micrometer, not a caliper. It is easy and doesn't take too long. You can't put it back in if you remove too much. After you get where you want to be, then size those bullets you've already sized earlier.
 
Discussion starter · #33 · (Edited)
Opened up a Lee a .356 sizing/swaging die as you guys advised. The bullet that comes out now measures .35710" to .35715", so it's pretty close to perfectly round and it fits nice and snug in my throats without being tight. I'm looking forward to trying them and see what accuracy they'll get.

Thanks for the advice.

Ps. I can already see myself doing the same for all my other guns ... :tango_face_grin:
 
What was your load again? I suspect you'll find just about anything will shoot great (cast bullets that is). My 357's are big guns with lots of metal in their cylinders so I tend to load them warm if not hot. To a certain degree, the warmer the better they shoot. With the FA83, the only limiting factor is brass capacity.

Since you've got your sizer done, find some LFN style bullets (Cast Performance?) and try them. Stay towards the heavier side. Since I cast my own, I'm spoiled.
 
My 41 cylinders pin gage .410 and my 44 cylinders pin gage .430. The only purpose for shooting lead I have is mostly for cheap plinking but most commercial cast lead is .001” over or more and I grew tired of shoving/forcing the bullets into the throats. I don’t mind paying premium prices for hunting bullets but XTPs shoot lights out without the headache or leading. I did briefly find some cast .410s but the company went out of business and I also came to the realization that my FAs just really like heavy bullets pushed to the maximum for top accuracy.
Recently, I picked up some Extreme plated .410 210s and when loaded with 5.0g Bullseye give me pretty good accuracy out to 25 yards. On the indoor range they shoot one hole. I plan to try some for my 44 next.
I haven’t completely given up on the other possibility which is to get Lee sizers. If anybody has some great shooting cupcake loads for their 41 or 44 I’m all ears. I’ve had no luck getting my FAs to shoot any target loads/speeds into less than 1” at 25 yards. Could be the lead I was shooting was too hard and the bullets didn’t seal the bore.
 
freedom arms guns are definitely tight in the chamber dept. Ive only had two calibers. 3 454s and one 475. Two 454s would chamber a 452 bullet if you really pushed them in. One wouldn't at all. It was sent back to freedom arms with a note asking them to open it up and came back like the other two and would chamber but you about had to pound them in. 475 was the same way. .476 bullets that fit in all my 475s wouldn't come close to chambering. You can either send them to a competent gunsmith like clements or bowen and have they open them up or use bullets smaller then you normal would and make sure your not over crimping. Just barely roll over the edge of the case. I got tired farting with them. Even if I could get ammo to chamber .001 smaller then normal for the round. 50 shots later when they were a bit dirty nothing would chamber. The cylinders are also a bit short for the calibers in 454 and 475 and the light crimp can get you in trouble. Any bullet jump what so ever in those hard kicking rounds would tie the gun up and if your hunting something that can bite back could get you hurt. Also that short cylinder even limits you to what cast bullet designs will work. Sad because there about a work of art when you look at how precisely there built. But maybe in a gun TO precise can be a negative.
 
Thanks for sharing! Your experience mirrored mine exactly. Years ago I used to own a 7.5” .357, it was my first FA and single shot. I was pretty confused about all of this to say the least but I did learn a lot as a result. Interestingly, I did ask FA about opening the throats up .001” and they politely said no and essentially that their guns were purpose built. To be fair, with hunting loads, my FAs awe me every time I shoot them. So accurate in fact, I sold my Ruger Flattop 45 convertible to help pay for my second FA and still have no regrets.
 
I've owned FAs revolvers in .22, .327, .41, .454 and .475...never any problems in seating most cast bullets and that is about all I shoot out of my guns. One thing however is because of the short tight lead from the end of the case mouth to the throats certain bullets that have a full diameter area in front of the crimping groove will often not go into the lead. Keith and some LBT designs are especially bad with this.


Have never had a .357 FA but do have a 97 5.5" on lay-a-way that I'll be getting next month. Will be using the 358156 Lyman/Thompson bullet that has a fairly narrow front driving band compared to a true Keith bullet.


One reason FA won't open up their throats is because they are perfectly matched to the forcing cone. If the throats are opened up my guess would be that there may be some lead shaving issues unless the forcing cone is also opened up...


Bob
 
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