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Are there specific distances between front and rear sights that make them more or less effetive? I have a couple of projects in mind and I don't really want to do the trial and error thing when it involves cutting barrels down. I'd like to get it right the first time.

EXAMPLE:
If you cut a 32" BC barrel down to 24" and just replace the apperture sight on the front, is that gonna be too short a distance between the rear Peep and the front apperture sights for them to work as well as they do on a 32" barrel? Sight picture?
OR
What if you take a Tracker II and cut it down to 20" and replace the front sight? Will you need to move the rear sight back onto the receiver to get a good sight picture?

I know shortening barrels affects the ballistics. I will research that, also, but I don't want to get into that on this thread.
Thanks to all of you who choose to have input on this thread.

cookiemann
 

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CM

Any time you shorten the sight radius you will change the accuratce of the weapon , but not always in a bad way , depending on your eyesight the shorter sights may make it better for you to see your sight picture . Also the type of sights used will make a diffrence .

One other thing to take in to account is the taper of the barrel , by shortening it you may cause a problem were the front sight is now too tall .

As for the BC barrel , if you are thinking about a 24" why not just get a 22" 45/70 and put peep sights on it ? a whole lot cheaper than having the BC cut and re-crowned and re-drilled for the front sight .

stimpy
 

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Every thing that Stimpy said is true. Let me expand a little. When you shorten the distance between the rear sight and the front sight, you have to be careful about having the front sight grow too large for the rear sight groove. What I mean to say that the ideal front sight will have the slightest sliver of light on both sides of the front blade when looking at it through the rear notch. That way you can center the blade in the rear sight "slot". If you move it up too close then you will lose that little sliver on each side. It also depends on the type of sight being used. a bead/post sight on the front and a U on the receiver end is a little different. You want the bead to center in the bottom of the U. Again if the distance is cut down then the bead will grow too much to find the center of the U. A blade type front sight can be fixed by slimming it down so that you can still see the sliver of light on both sides or id it is dove tailed in then replace it with a slimmer one. Another way - open the rear notch just a little. With a bead type, the U would have to be opened a little or if the bead is dove tailed in a base, you can change the post/bead size. To be able to tell you what size to get a head of time would be difficult. If there is not drastic changes made, you may not need to change any thing. Some sights have too large of a rear groove to start with. If you have a globe type of front sight with peeps then just changing the peep opening or the front insert will fix it. While we are talking irons, some people think they need to center the front post on the target. I have found, as has many others, that it works best if the target sets on top of the front post. Center the post. align the post with the top of the rear sight and then have the target setting on top of the front sight. You get a much better sight picture this way. When hunting, set the target area on top of the front post and let 'er rip. It is quicker and usually more accurate. Works better for snap shots too. It comes natural after a little practice.
 

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The front sight will grow on you if you shorten the barrel. I just cut my 357 max. Now the front post is to fat. It covers the target at 100 yards.. Easy fix though. file the post down a little on each side. I went with a peep sight. To me it felt " right". I shoot bow more than gun. My bow has a peep. So it felt good right away. Jay
 
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