Graybeard Outdoors banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am refinishing the stock and forend on my Browning B-78 and I have a couple of questions. The first of which is, stock finish, I am doing a oil finish and was wondering what you guys would use Watco (sp?) danish oil or Birchwood Casey True-oil?

The second question is on grip caps. I picked up a grip cap from Brownell's and I have that all fitted. My problem is the screw. It is oversized big time. When installed it bottoms out and sticks up by approximately 3/16". What do I do about that?

Any help on either question would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,594 Posts
Kent,
I do like the Birchwood-Casey products and the True-Oil (I believe it is a mixture of linseed, and tung oils. I've had excellent results with Formby's Tung Oil (this happened to be a gloss finish), but I always prefer to rub down the finish between coats with 4-O steel wool to blend everything in well, that includes the final coat.

There are those that say you should use a wet-dry sanding paper like 240 grit, cut into 2x2 inch strips and with your finger tips, using the oil, lightly rub the finish in till it gets "dirty". This in effect seals the pores of the wood making an unbelieveable smooth and gorgeous finish. You don't rub the "dirty oil off, but allow it to dry. You want to thin the oil down quite a bit to do this rubbing-in technique.

Jim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
779 Posts
Formby's

I'll second your comments. Have used both, Tru-oil as well as Formby's in the methods you describe. I have found that using one of those synthetic sanding pads in the lightest coarse grade after the final coat to be a plus. This final, very light rub down will knock off the gloss if you don't want a shiny finish. One advantage to the tru-oil is that I find it dries quicker.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
I have re finished many gunstocks and built some from blanks and pre turned stocks. The 2 finishes I like best is PURE tung oil, not the various tung oil and synthetic combo's that are sold. They may work just fine but pure tung oil creates the nicest soft sheen to fairly shiny if you like. I final sand the wood with 600 wet or dry paper, then liberaly apply tung oil and kep working it into the wood. It will get warm and dry reasonably quickly. You can do as many coats as you like, each one builds up the finish. Tung oil is a drying oil unlike Linseed oil which almost never really dries. The other finish I use for Weatherby type finishes is Fuller Plast that is(was) put out by the Fuller O'brian paint company. I don't know if it is still available, but the gallon I bought several years ago is only 25% used up. This is a catalyzed varnish finish, somewhat like Epoxy. You add hardner to the base varnish and it will harden. You can keep the unused mixed finish in the freezer for several days during use and it will not harden. When finished I wet sand with 800 or 1000 grit(available from most auto finishers) to level everything then rub down with liquid auto polish to a VERY high shine. Hope this is of some help. Keep sandong till it is done, then sand some more.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,238 Posts
I have tried the sanded in finishes and they are beautiful but very time consuming. Also it is quite easy to sand too vigorously and alter the stocks shape. I have tried many different finishes and for the weatherby shine I use a polyurethane made to be hand applied(it is simply very thin). They recommend a cloth but I prefer my hand. For oil I use the Watco Danish oil finish first. It is thin and slow to dry. I heat the wood with an electric heat gun(heat until holding the stock is uncomfortable) and apply the material liberally, keeping the entire stock wet (especially watch the end grain areas) until the stock is thoroughly cooled. I let the stock rest until the finish thickens and rub it vigorously with the hand. The remenants of this coat are rubbed off cross grain with a lint free cloth.. I like old cotton bedsheets. This is done twice, The second may not be needed. Most times a single application is sufficient. Allow this to thoroughly dry, 24-48 hours. I use TruOil as a topcoat. It dries harder than the Watco but not as hard as the tung finishes. It is steel wooled (0000) between coats, just to knock down the shine, read very lightly. The last coats are applied using as little material as one can and still let the hand slide over the wood for just a little while. Usually just 5-7 drops per side of the stock and scuffing may be allowed to go 2-3 coats. When sufficient finish is built up the stock is allowed to thoroughly dry. It is then very lightly steel wooled with 0000 wool and a wax is applied. I am still experimenting with waxes but haven't found any real standouts. Almost anything with carnuba works just fine. I have a new type of french finishing wax, perhaps it'll be the 'final answer'. The final rubbing out will determine the gloss. It steel fur is used, it will produce a low gloss sheen. If one uses textured cloth such as denum(sp.) more gloss will be produced. If this final rubbing is omitted the waxing will produce almost as much gloss as the TruOil alone. I used tung oil many years ago and really liked the look, but found the finish it produced would crack if allowed to get very hot, as in a closed car. Also it seemed a more delicate finish than waxed TruOil. The finish I described mimics the finish found on many of the pre-64 M70's... and is fairly easy to fix and maintain.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top