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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Gang,

I think I'd like to give ppb's a try. I don't know if the chamber in my rifle will work well with them or not and will probably just buy some bullets to try before getting a mould. I looked at Mont. Precision Swaging's list and there are tapered and straight sided bullets listed. Maybe some of you who have been doing this for a while could point out the advantages/disadvantages of each.

I noticed, rdnck, that you say you do not lube the outside of the patched bullet, is that correct? Do you use a lube cookie then? An aquaintance warns that ppb's will wear my barrel out faster than anything-any truth to that?

My barrel slugs .400" x .408" and seems to have a "gentle" leade into the rifling. Some say patch to bore size, some say patch to groove dia. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ted K.
 

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Straight sided are the way to go. I've heard the theory that patched bullets wear out barrels faster, but I sure don't see how. Both the paper and lead are softer than copper. I know some folks don't lube after patching, but I've had better luck lubing. I've used liquid Alox and Lyman Super Moly. Both work well, but I prefer the Moly. I put a dab of Alox on the exposed patch for some degree of water profing.
 

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Castaway - I don't know whether or not paper patched bullets wear more or less than anything else, BUT paper is extremely abrasive. You will find that tooling used to cut wood or paper must withstand much more abrasiveness than any metal.
 

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Lube and paper patches

Ted Kramer--I apologize for taking so long to answer your question, but I have been in the Philippines and have just returned.


I need to say that I only shoot paper patched bullets with black powder. Actually, black powder is ALL that I have shot since the early eighties.


My take on the issue of lube and barrel wear is that I don't use any lube on the patch. I do use a good grease cookie between the wad over the powder and the bullet. A good balanced load will yield minimal fouling, and a grease cookie serves to keep what fouling there is soft and manageable and thus allow you to keep shooting without wiping. The soft fouling actually acts as a lubricant itself, if the load is balanced, and the lube works properly. A lube that contains petroleum products will not give this result with black powder.

Lube on the bullet causes the patch to want to stick to the bullet, and this is a serious detriment to accuracy. Actually, I am surprised that many people want to patch the bullets with wet patches. I patch mine DRY. The patch doesn't want to stretch or tear, and the bullet can be loaded immediately, and the paper releases from the bullet better. Done properly, the bullets stay put and can readily be carried in a cartridge belt. For shooting in wet weather, the exposed paper can be rubbed with graphite, and cartridges can be put in a coat pocket.

There are those that say paper is abrasive and will cause premature barrel wear. I have a 45-90 that has more than 5,000 rounds of paper patch ammo down the barrel, and it shoots as well as ever. If the barrel does wear, so what? It will wear evenly, and if it gets larger, it doesn't call for a new barrel, or even a larger bullet mold. All you have to do is use thicker paper to patch with, and keep shooting.

Paper patched pure lead bullets add an extra dimension to a BPCR. They are accurate, traditional, and provide outstanding performance on game. They are not my bullet of choice for silhouette competition, but when you show up in a hunting camp with a cartridge belt full of paper patched bullets and a good Sharps or Rolling Block, it makes a statement the other rifles simply can't match. Shoot straight, rdnck.

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Caddo Lake Chapter
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Discussion Starter #5
Lube and paper patches

rdnck-

Thanks for the answers to some of my questions. I've been using black only also for years, but mostly muzzleloaders up until the last 2-3 years. I believe I will give ppb's a try in the Sharps. Am having trouble finding the right paper anywhere around here, but will just get some from whereever I end up getting the bullets. If it goes as well as you relate it does for you, then I will get a mould for it. Lots of info to absorb in this BPCR game!!WHEW!

Ted
 

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Ted Kramer, paper is easy to find if you have a Wal-Mart. I bought a tablet of tracing paper in the art section. It is made by Mead and you get 40 sheets for $1.97

I contacted and purchased ppb from Liberty Shooting Supplies because I don't have an RCBS mold yet. These bullets are straight sided with a diamiter of .451 and are 530-gr hollow base.

So far I have nothing but good results in my 45-90 :grin:
 

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paper patched bullets

Montanan-OK, a Wal-Mart or two we have close-by. I'll check it out. Have yet to get pp bullets for my 40 cal, but have spotted a used Hoch .394" that throws a 380gr bullet. My bore measures .400" x .408" so would the .394" diameter be right to patch up to just about .399" or so? How thick is the paper you mentioned that's at Wally-World? I would really appreciate any instruction you could find time to share as to patching the bullet, etc. All new to me. If you want/can my email is [email protected] Thanks.

Ted
 

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Ted Kramer - When I first started to pp I was using 20 pound paper for my copier and found it's thickness just too much at .004" when I found the paper at Wal-Mart I checked with my caliper and found it to be .002" thick.

It's feel is great and decided for the price at $1.97 for 40 sheets, it was worth the try.

I found that I don't have to bell the cases as much, very minor for seating the ppb on the cardwad/grease cookie. After wetting with my own spit :roll: I just put paper in my mouth and wet and then use my mouse pad to roll them patches on the straight sided bullet. The excess paper trail you tuck into the hollow base.

I let these stand dry so any swelling that the paper gets from being wet will then shrink to fit, and your spit will work as an adhearing product for the paper to stick to itself.

When firing I have checked for paper residue and have found that about 3' to 4' out from the muzzle. I haven't recovered any bullets yet as they splatter when hitting my steel buffalo target. But I get nice groups from these, so it is my guess that the bullet is flying true and all pp is removed as the bullet leaves the barrel. :p

I have followed Brent Danielson's Ways and feel he is the most knowledgable person of Making, Loading and Shooting the Paper Patched Bullet.

I hope this helps :D

Jon
 
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