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This and That!!!

2159 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  timberlake
Just my two cents, from the new guy! Been reading these posts this evening! Great topics, good answers! So here's some more thoughts to ponder!! Italian single shot copys both Sharps and Remington are fair at best. Replace the barrel with a name brand, with known twist and bore diameter. Then it might shoot good! Watch your breech block for signs of cracking, several rolling block copys have came apart on the range due to breech block problems! The twist rate and bore diameter should be checked before you decide to purchase one! Have inspected three so far that were advertised as 1 in 18 twist with .458 bore only to be a 1 in 20 twist with a .460 bore! Not exactly truth in advertising!
Duplex loads- A no-no in an original single shot! No matter how skilled and carefull you are! Duplexing causes unknown pressure limits, this can do bad things to your rifle and even you! Most duplex because it burns most of the fouling out of the barrel, however after firing such a load have you noticed that the rifle kicked harder? Cartridge was a little harder to extract? Plus duplex loads on anything shortens case life due to higher pressure at the base of case! Thins out the brass at the base!! This can be an expensive way to go if your duplexing anything bigger than a 45-70!
Powder compression dies- A big waste of money! All the compression you will ever need on a black powder cartridge is 1/16 of an inch if that! You can do this with your over powder wad and a wood dowell, and if you think this is slower than the die think again! Line up 20 charged cases and do 10 by hand and 10 in the die. The hand is quicker than the die! How can the hand method be accurate you ask? If you mark your compression limit on the dowell, including your seating depth,wad and the 1/16 compression all falls into place rather quickly!
I posted this for your benefit! Not to make anyone mad! If I did , forgive me! Been doing this game for a long time, longer than most! I know what works and what don't! At least with my rifle!! Have seen guy's get rich selling garbage to make the game easyer, while it makes you poorer! And the results are still the same! Keep it simple! If it works dont change it! And most important of all, Every time you pull that trigger on that old single shot your closer to history than most folk ever will be! Enjoy it!!!

A man and his rifle become one!
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This and That!!! Cont....

Hey Smokin.. Methinks the easiest way to compress is with a hard bullet having the driver dia turned down. Ya seat, remove that undersized and seat the full dia slug. SLick and fast.

Them IT-tal--iiannn shooters get high marks on various talk shops per accuracy. The fella that hauls for them US wise states their broach cut to exacting standards. Makes me think it'd be hard to match those specs.. a good barrel is a good barrel no matter the driller. But I would grant ya some of those off brands are just that-- way off the mark.

Methinks the BPCR game is like the cast bullet game-- full of old wives' tales handed down by them that really don't have the overall grip. And those olden 'roooles' keep many new in the dark. 'Pears to me the drop tube can be thrown away, along with soft lead alloy, bees wax in the lube, and some of those flimsy 'wads' cut to 'protect' the bullet base. IF I could tell the beginner one thing it'd be 'use a wad that seals combustion gases'. Some use plastic-- I use thick tablet or solid cardboard cut OVERSIZED, making a tight fit into that case. No gas goes up that bullet side that ways-- no gas cutting, no leading-- your starting right in square one that ways. THen the lube-- it has to flow in your temp range. That hard stuff which makes loading so easy and the bullets look neat ain't gonna make the trip IF it don't slump back and work at bullet accelleration. I hear these guys talk about cutting their barrels back cause of dry 'last couple inches'. I gringe, ain't no way... Find an optimum burn rate for that fuel and use another LUBE.....

End of rant. Thanks for puttin' up with it all. Rebuttals/friendly squabbles invited.
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Smokin' no bruised toes here. Your method produces results and that's what matters. Thought your original post contained a lotta meat-- some good pts-- found no disagreement.

I see some on other 'yack' forums who think it's their's or bust. Methinks get the basics down and this let this BLACK be the fun it outta beee.
King be interastin' if ya posted the loads for your guns..
KING said:
O.K...HERE YA GO ALADIN...MY .45-70..rem case/FED 215M FER A PRIMER...65grs of 2f GOEX...POWDER HAS A WAD OVER IT(.060 VEG. FIBRE TYPE)...Projo is a LYMAN HAND CAST .458 (WW LEAD) with SPG LUBE...oal is 2.95 inches....CHRONY IS 1160GPS.....I USE THE SAME LOAD WITH THE lyman postell and it gets about same speed.....both are good in my two pedersoli....45-120...bell case..FED 215M PRIMER...120 goex cart..i .o6o over powder wad.projo 405 grn flat point..CHRONY also is an accurate load for this gun....i lso used SPG AS A LUBE..SOMETIMES I WILL GET A BETTER GROUP with 3f goex with the rn projo.......cant find the oal on the .45-120,but it is seated so it is just touching the rifling...hope ya find it interesting my friend....DA HOLEY BLACK is the only way to go with marsh would say...king
King interastin' to be sure. I like to compare how different guns do for speed. Course this forgets powder lots surely differ as to FPS.

The lot of 2F I just finished made right at 1100 with 63 grs [I might check that] albeit using 210's with ww alloy Postells. 71 grs of same made 1180.

My lot of 3F was best. The accuracy loading of 1100 fps again makes a tight moa if I can hold it [scope too]. This with around 56 grs. 69 grs of same turns out 1248 FPS again with the P's. These loads with no neck tension and against the rifled part. All WW brass.

Yet my pipe likes neck tension with the fake stuff. Gonna revisit such with the real thang.
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