[crashresidue]

Cheers,
I just took delivery of a "Lyman #55 powder measure - with drop tubes".
Now I'm not the brightest "driver" out here, but what the H*LL are the measuring marks for on the brass "first slide" and the third "steel slide" supposed to mean?
There is no explination about them in any of the paperwork they sent!
Are they just "calibration marks" for my own use - or do they really mean something?
Also - what is this "7/8 X 14 adapter" used for? They don't tell me a thing about THAT either!
ANY info would be greatly appreciated!
( Repeative Motion Disorder was my excuse/reasoning for getting this) Something to keep in mind!

Sorry, Marsh - just too tired to try to "out Southern" you tonight - it's takes too long to figure out how to spell it like it sounds!

Gentle winds,
cr

 

[The Shrink]

Time for my "newest" stupid quest

Crashresidue

I have the same thing and the same question about the marks. The threaded adapter is to mount it in a press, that's the same thread as your dies. I assume that this relates to the progressive presses, I don't know. I've never used one, and have only seen a Dillon ?? set up at the shop. Maybe you can mount it on one of the holes in a turrent press??

Frankly, I've ignored the lines, just as I do with my RCBS Uniflow. I adjust the measure with my scale regardless of what the lines say. I look at the cavity and guess at the size I need for a starting size. At times I am wildly off!

 

[crashresidue]

?

Cheers Shrink,

I've got other Lyman stuff, and they all came with enough info to drowned you! What gives with this?

Rather than start another topic - what "rate of fire" do you use? With my, pardon the blasphamy(sp?), smokeless, I touch the barrel and if it's too hot to hold, I stop shooting for a while - now with a 16 pound barrel, how hot can the "outside" get before you ruin the "inside"?

OK, I'm on a roll - how do you clean the inside of your brass? I "hand wash" my brass right after shooting and I scrub out the inside with a nylon "case brush" - but the inside stays "black" no matter how hard I scrub.

Thanks for responding - I guess Marsh is "sleeping" today - I was sure I'd get a "southern" response from him that would take me HOURS to decode!

Virginia Beach - I used to live up in Fairfax - before I escaped! Come to Maui and I'll show you where you ought to be!

Gentle winds,
cr

 

[The Shrink]

Time for my "newest" stupid quest

Wow! Maui - I'm jealous. Spent a week in Honolulu years ago, flew over to the Big Island to see Mana Loa, but none of the other islands. I grew up in Fairfax, graduated from Oakton HS and NVCC.

Rate of fire - well let me first tell you that I have not shot competition, silouette or any other, so rate of fire is kinda a moot point. It is sometimes determined by the number of observers. I am not near os disciplined as rdnck or coydog or the other silouette shooters. Thus I have shot 10 rounds w/o using a breathing tube, and have run a patch after every round. I have used a breath tube between shots, and I don't see that anything other than a long string w/o anything trumps my bad shooting. Unfortunately any range is 2 hours away, so I don't get there very often to practice. Rate for fire won't "ruin" the inside of your barrel, just clog it up with powder residue. It cleans up well.

Cleaning - I deprime and drop my brass in soapy water at the range. Bring them home and put them in the vibratory cleaner with ceamic balls for an hour or two. This cleans them well, but doesn't polish them much. I think I'll get some walnut media for my other bin for the Lyman vibratory cleaner. With the MicroBrite ceramic media I use a little water and dish soap. Let them dry well or put in the oven for a while before loading!

 

[Sharpsman]

Newest "stupid" question!

Crashresidue

<<< but what the H*LL are the measuring marks for on the brass "first slide" and the third "steel slide" supposed to mean?>>>

IMO...ain't no stupid questions....just stupid replies! If you've got what I think you have....the upper brass slides are utilized to throw minute pistol charges or light-weight amounts of powder. My Dad started me out reloading over 50 years ago with one of these and basically they haven't changed much...if any! Throwing light charges you will discover that you'll get more consistent weights just possibly using the upper brass plate or a combination of the two brass plates. The scribe marks on the plates are available for you to RECORD....just what amount of powder is being thrown at that particular setting and this mileage is gonna vary when you change powders! For my usage and throwing BP with weights of 100 grains or more.....I utilize a cavity whereby I am using a cavity formed by ALL OF THE AVAILABLE PLATES. I just undo the lockscrew that holds all the plates in place and slide the major or largest drum outward and then I move accordingly until I obtain the amount of powder that I want to be thrown. It only takes a small amount of movement once you get close....say within two grains or so...to make up the difference! It WOULD NOT HURT for you to put in a little powdered graphite into the hopper to make things work/slide better!

Hope this helps!

 

[crashresidue]

Time for my "newest" stupid quest

Cheers Marsh,

You make me tired just trying to read your reply!
Thanks for the info!

To "Shrink" and the others (I don't remember) - thanks to you for taking the time to talk/answer to any "dumb" thing that I have to ask!

BTW - if you show me yours, I'll show you mine! I don't have a site, but the e-address is valid!

Gentle winds,
cr

 

[Ross]

Time for my "newest" stupid quest

The John Barlow Ideal measure was graduated for grains weight of black powder, but now should be considered only as DMS reference points only.
Cheers from Grayest California,
Ross