****- too hard to handle...?
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My answer is yes on dry land and no at water sets. This is my 2nd year traping them using 1 1/2 c.s. on dry land. I tried to clear away any thing solid they can get a hold of but I still have trouble. I would like to hear the solutions you guys have.
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No Steve, I can hold them anytime in my mink sets... LOL
John
John
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NO 
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Yea this 2nd year trapper would like to know my self. I'd like improve any place I can. :?
All those that feel **** aren't hard to hold in a trap- I would like to know 2 things- do you trap on land or water (or both) and what trap do you use?
For those that do have trouble holding ****- the same 2 questions apply.
For those that do not feel **** are hard to hold- why do you think your trap and methods are giving you these results?
For those that do feel **** are hard to hold- why?
Is there any connection between viewpoint and trap?
:? Patience now- the reason I am doing this piecemeal is so neither I nor you get any preconcevied notions. It will all tie together by and by.
For those that do have trouble holding ****- the same 2 questions apply.
For those that do not feel **** are hard to hold- why do you think your trap and methods are giving you these results?
For those that do feel **** are hard to hold- why?
Is there any connection between viewpoint and trap?
:? Patience now- the reason I am doing this piecemeal is so neither I nor you get any preconcevied notions. It will all tie together by and by.
on land I usually am setting for yotes, fox or cats. I use 1.75cs for most sets with the exception of #3cs for my cat sets. The ***** I have caught there have been incidentals. I think they are hard to hold because i have seen where the trap hits the animal high on the lower leg and then when i run traps (early morning, usually before light) I see the ol'**** only hanging on by one toe!
in the water i use 1.5cs and used some 1.5Ls till a feller convinced me they were worthless for **** (not sure if I believe that or not) anyway, all my sets are on drounder cables, however i too often see where the **** has refused to go down the cable and instead claws for the land leaving me a empty trap. The chains on my water traps consist of 2 swivels and 3 links...totaling about 6 inches. I usually dig picket sets, and stake as far from shore as i can so the trap stayes as close to the water as possible. Most of my water sets are onder 2-4 inches of water.
help...i wanna learn.
Tim B
in the water i use 1.5cs and used some 1.5Ls till a feller convinced me they were worthless for **** (not sure if I believe that or not) anyway, all my sets are on drounder cables, however i too often see where the **** has refused to go down the cable and instead claws for the land leaving me a empty trap. The chains on my water traps consist of 2 swivels and 3 links...totaling about 6 inches. I usually dig picket sets, and stake as far from shore as i can so the trap stayes as close to the water as possible. Most of my water sets are onder 2-4 inches of water.
help...i wanna learn.
Tim B
Tim- hopefully we can help each other !
I was asking the questions for a couple of reasons. I personally think the 1.5 cs is the perfect all around trap- if by law I could have only one trap- that would be it. I find **** not at all hard ot hold on land, and I don't worry about tangelements, etc. Only "secrets" are- 1) as one poster stated- bed your traps as for canines 2) use a dog guide stick. #short chain. I use Dukes. On land- my instances of pullouts are very rare- almost non existant.
Now in water- in general, I have little problem with pullouts. On staked or drag sets ( I use logs on small streams) I again have little problem holding ****.
But on drowning wire sets- I have more pullouts than any other type. I find more of this occuring in "high lever" type traps such as the older Victors. I find these empty at the end of the wire 2-3 times a week. My theorey is that as the **** tries to go down the wire, his feet push on the springs, and he looses the grip enough to pull out. The wet foot surely helps this happen.
I thought #11 might take care of this problem, and that problem they do- but I found that, for me, the number of snapped traps was just way too high. In water, most catches are by the back foot, and the back foot on a **** of any size can easily span a #11.
A #11 on land, although I hear of some that have success with it, to me is worthless- it just can't come up through the amount of dirt needed to bed traps properly.
Comments?
I was asking the questions for a couple of reasons. I personally think the 1.5 cs is the perfect all around trap- if by law I could have only one trap- that would be it. I find **** not at all hard ot hold on land, and I don't worry about tangelements, etc. Only "secrets" are- 1) as one poster stated- bed your traps as for canines 2) use a dog guide stick. #short chain. I use Dukes. On land- my instances of pullouts are very rare- almost non existant.
Now in water- in general, I have little problem with pullouts. On staked or drag sets ( I use logs on small streams) I again have little problem holding ****.
But on drowning wire sets- I have more pullouts than any other type. I find more of this occuring in "high lever" type traps such as the older Victors. I find these empty at the end of the wire 2-3 times a week. My theorey is that as the **** tries to go down the wire, his feet push on the springs, and he looses the grip enough to pull out. The wet foot surely helps this happen.
I thought #11 might take care of this problem, and that problem they do- but I found that, for me, the number of snapped traps was just way too high. In water, most catches are by the back foot, and the back foot on a **** of any size can easily span a #11.
A #11 on land, although I hear of some that have success with it, to me is worthless- it just can't come up through the amount of dirt needed to bed traps properly.
Comments?
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