sideironJohn: Homebrew rust inhibiting tip: if instead of (degrease after oil), or in conjunction with oil, or after oiled - provided the blue is like Van's: no active acid left dormant WITH the bluing (not, I believe) then a dap of Automotive grade "pure" Carnauba wax (closest to pure if it is a paste, most likely - since pure carnauba is hard as a rock) onto the freshly oiled surface, it will give much greater rust corrossion than oil alone. If the oil/wax complex is good enough, a cold blue will be more corrossion resistant than hot blue for the same reason phosphate works better: more pores to absorb oil. Oil/Wax is much better than oil alone, as oil breaks down. Owners of fine Automobiles do never oil the paint, but they WAX it. (Auto Wax holds up better for longer against bird droppings, road salt, detergents, etc). The advantage of Carauba is it resists solvents well, but can be removed eventually with strong solvents if you need the metal bare and reactive again. Grease works on the same principle as Wax: clog up the pores except with thick stuff. Carnauba wax can futher be made to appear dull for hunting by polishing with a damp cloth - shiny for show with a dry cotton cloth. It fits a low budget, since you can use it a a very inexpensive do-it-yourself general protectant.
Gunsmithing related, and backup to it's chemistry: Van's Instant Gun Blue made a write-up in American Gunsmithing Association Journal in '98 as a testimony to a significant number of member Gunsmiths who swore it was their favorite by phone when a member help-line was installed to all other available gun blue's - that would include all Blues available to a Gunsmith: so much so they were in desperation mode to get "the only stuff that works." I've heard were follow-up letters published in the Journal to affirm the desire for it. In a sense it was a compelling results-oriented review by a large group of gunsmiths published in the magazine of a nonprofit organization.