[longwinters]

I have a weatherby rifle in stainless/synthetic. The trigger seems harder to pull than my Tikka or my sons Sako. The trigger is set @ 3#. I see an adjustment screw by the trigger . . . I imagine that turning it counter-clockwise will reduce the weight needed for the trigger to fire. How many turns would I have to go to reduce the trigger pull to 2 1/2 #? Also, I thought I would check the free floating barrel . . . but could not get a piece of paper between the barrel and the forend. Do I need to sand the forend down so that I can slide a piece of paper thru or is this common with synthetic stocks so no problem. The gun will shoot 1.5" groups (which is what Weatherby guarantees), but I would like it to be at its best w/o messing it up. Any help will be appreciated.

 

[gunnut69]

How go you know the trigger is set at 3#'s? Have you a trigger scale or some other way to measure the trigger pull. The 3 components of a trigger pull that are adjustable are- 1)the pull weight, 2)over travel, 3)creep. There is a fourth but most triggers are single stage today so take up is not a problem. The pull weight is only a single component of a good trigger pull. good luck from the gunnut69

 

[longwinters]

Gunnut, last year I took it to a gunsmith and he ck'd the trigger pull with a scale. But said that there was not much you could do with a Weatherby trigger, and that 3# was about as low as you could go. But I am not sure if he just did not want to mess with it a/c liability or something. What I do know for sure is that it pulls harder than my Tikka or the different Sako rifles that I have had or shot. So I think I can do better with it. . . although it might mean going with another trigger.

 

[gunnut69]

I suppose what I was trying to say was that 3# is a decent trigger pull. I would not reccomend a lower pull on any rifle used for hunting.. Cold can number fingers and alter trigger dimensions. Also gloves delete some of the control we have on the trigger blade.. At 3# most can feel the blade before the rifle fires even with gloves on. Also most factory triggers are not precise enough to take being set very much lower than that. If a trigger must be set lower it almost certainly requires the trigger return spring be replaced. Shortening the factory spring is a very poor idea. You need the full extension of this spring to assure the trigger resets after firing. Creep and over travel are also adjustable and probably do more to harm a good trigger pull than just pull weight. You may also find a marked improvement in the trigger action by simply removing the barreled action and cleaning the trigger mechanism with a spray carberator cleaner.. This is basically a spray can of solvent and will remove old grease/oil and leave bare metal. Be certain to use this product outdoors!! After the cleaning I reccomend relubing with a dry film type lube, either a graphite or moly preperation reccommended for locks is fine. Do not use oil, silicone, or grease of any kind. These will all collect contamination and in a delicate mechanism dirt can prevent proper function. Anything further than turning screws is probably not a DIY project. Mistakes in trigger jobs can lead to trajedies. Finding a replacement trigger may also be a bit of a problem.. I could not find a replacement trigger in the current Brownells listings. You may contact M.H.Canjar Co. in 6510 Raleigh St. Arvada, CO 80003. Their catalog indicates they produce a model for the MK5 action. Their products are first rate.. But before the replacement I advise trying cleaning and proper lube.. good luck from the gunnut69

 

[longwinters]

Thanks for the info Gunnut69. I will try your course of action.