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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found an old 311 that I want to use to break into CAS and as a winter project. I know that dry firing is a bad plan. Having said that, when I first got the piece, the dry fire monster visited :roll: and I found that it takes two men and a boy to open the action after such an event. Before I bought the gun, I tried it out with snap caps, and everything seemed to function fine. The top snap doesn't seem to hang up, and seems to travel it's normal range of motion, and the barrels will give a little, but won't break without some serious manipulating. I'm not sure why the action opens, but at some point while I'm fighting with it, it eventually does.

Any ideas?
 

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The barrels are probably catching the firing pins when you open it. Try bouncing the butt stock on the floor before you open it also lube the firing pins, I can't remember if they have return springs or not but I don't think.
 

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If indeed the firing pins not retracting is the problem the gun should open some the firing pins will catch on the lower edge of the chamber and stop further opening of the gun(the pins are in the center of the chamber). Usually the guns will open but will refuse to close with the firing pins protruding. You didn't indicate this as the problem.. Has the gun been 'tightened', this sometimes causes problems with the cocking lever and the cocking plunger?? Is the cocking plunger worn or damaged? usually firing pins not retracting can be seen... More info please... the gunnut69
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input guys.

I don't think it's a firing pin problem, because the action doesn't open far enough for the lower edges of the chambers to catch on the firing pins.

Further investigation, however, has revealed a broken ejector screw. I'm not sure what effect this has, though, as the ejector seems to be staying in place. I guess that's the first thing to be replaced...though I may need a whole new ejector, since the screw is broken off in it. I'll keep you posted.

Dumb question #453...the extractor appears to be just that...not an ejector. When I get this screw replaced, will that turn the extractor into an ejector? If so (Dumb question #454), can I make it not be an ejector? I intended to use this for CAS which, of course, doesn't allow ejectors, and will defeat one of the major reasons for this whole project.
 

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It'l still be an extractor and yes indeed that can cause opening problems.. Sounds as if that may be your problem. Keep us posted!! gunnut69
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey Gunnut,

I haven't replaced that extractor screw yet, but couldn't wait any longer, and had this thing out shooting today. If I just fire the right barrel (front trigger), there are no problems and life is good. However, if I fire the left barrel, the world comes undone. I have to take the thing apart and after screwing with the extractor blank and cocking plunger, I can get the action open.

Does this convince you more or less that the extractor screw is the problem?
 

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Could be the cocking plunger but that screw needs to be there.. Parts are usually available as there were a BUNCH of these made under several brands and names. They are a fairly straight forward design and pretty tough.. good luck from the gunnut69
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The screw extraction procedure didn't work...new extractor on order. :x
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, I got the new ejector and ejector screw from GPC today. How snug should the ejector fit against the forend iron assembly? There is quite a bit of play between these parts, but I noticed on the old extractor that it was worn where it rests against the forend iron, indicating to me that there had been some play there for a while. The action is working better now, but still not properly. Do I need to find a way to get the screw in tighter to snug the extractor up to the forend iron?

I got this thing thinking that it would be cool to tinker with and save me a few bucks in a CAS shotgun at the same time, so I'm not looking to sink a bunch of money into it. I'm wondering now if that thinking wasn't flawed...
 

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Mainspring,
I used an old 311 for a project gun in school. Mine will open almost of its own weight if I fire only 1 barrel (either one) but when I fire both, it really takes some effort to open. It seems that it takes more than twice the effort to cock both hammers than just one.
Also I'v never seen a 311 with ejectors but there's a lot out there I've never seen.
I have not had to replace an extractor on a 311 but usually on the guns that I have, the extractor is really tight and has to be fitted. Also they usually will extend into the chamber and a rim cutter will have to be used to open it up to allow chambering a shell.
George
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
GWN,

The ejector is a different part than what you're talking about. I'm really not sure what exactly it "ejects", but it's totally different from the extractors. On the forend, it's the rear most hunk of steel, held to the forearm by a single screw from inside the forearm. It measures about 1"x1/2", and is made to fit flush on two rounded and one sort of triangular surfaces. The sort of triangular surface fits point up between the groves of the top of the forend iron. BTW, this hanging up problem only happens when I fire the left barrel.

It's beginning tgo annoy me.
 

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Mainspring,
You're right, that part is called an ejector. Why, I don't know. It operates the extractor and the cocking plunger. Both, as well as the cocking lever, are common to both barrels. Let us know what you find.
George
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
GWN,

I'll be sure to keep everyone here up to date on the progress I make with this project...to a fault, I'm sure. Everyone is going to get sick of hearing from me. LOL :-D

So nobody knows how tight the ejector should be to the forend iron? Should there be noticeable play?

If this doesn't fix my opening problem after firing the left barrel, does anyone have any suggestions where to start next?

Thanks.
 

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Mainspring,
The ejector in my 311 moves freely.
My next move would be to pull the buttstock and put the mark 1 eyeball to work to see if I could see any problem while cocking . I would remove the barrels and cock the hammers with a big screwdriver, prying up the cocking lever. To fire I aim up and place a quarter over the firing pin hole and pull the trigger, launching the quarter to the ceiling. If it was much harder to cock the left barrel than the right, that would elimiate the forend.
George
 
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