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I have a coleman stove, an old castiron dutch oven, 50# declipped wheel weights, a bic lighter, plenty of my own "witches brew" bullet lube, and a pan to lube in. On order is the Lyman casting manual, 1 set of Lee moulds/handles, and a casting ladle. What else do I have to have to cast shootable bullets?

I know I wan't to try casting, and I believe that it is going to be something I enjoy, if it is, I'll be looking for a "this will help" list.

My first attempts will be for Black Powder only, and I've been really pleased with my lube in other peoples bullets.



Butler Ford
 

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If the molds are new be sure to degrease them well. The old timers would "smoke" the molds with a candle. I use some of the spray mold release. Seems that everytime I get a new set of molds they cast wrinkled bullets. With a quick shot of the spray I get great bullets. The spray wears off over time but the wrinkling doesn't come back.

On another note some casters will cast over a 5 gallon bucket of water. This sort of "surface hardens" the bullets. It's wet and messy at times but something you might want to try down the road.

Best of luck and let us know how it turns out
Walt
 

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I'm confused!

Are you casting for a muzzleloader or cartridge blackpowder?

Muzzleloader: you want PURE LEAD not wheelweights, ww are too hard for roundballs, etc.

Cartridge: then the wheelweights will be fine and water quenching WILL harden them even more. Just be sure to have the bucket of water AWAY from the pot. You drop the bullets directly from the mold into the water and they will cool more rapidly, much like a blacksmith tempering steel. Don't get water in the lead pot! :shock:
 

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something to flux the lead with but your bullet lube will probably do. and something to shoot the bullets in :)
 

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Try to position yourself down wind of the dutch oven. The less you breathe the fumes the better. Don't eat or drink while casting for the same reason.
Have a box or something to put the spurs of lead as you cut them off of the bullets and an old towel is nice for the completed bullets to drop on.
Take your time and try to do this without distractions--above all enjoy it!
 

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If you do quench the bullets in water for hardness, DO NOT place the wet rejects back into the pot of melt. This would be explosive! Also, make sure the wheel weights are completely dry before adding those. Expand your focus to centerfire casting because it's a natural progression that you shouldn't miss out on.
 

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Hey, old buddy, seem to run into you everywhere.

Looks like you've gotten some good advice. I'd add a couple of things, however, that I've found useful.

About a 12" or so length of broomstick or something similar to tap the
sprue cutter with.

Safety glasses, or some kind of eye protection, in case of lead splatter.

Pliars to pick up hot cutoff sprues and return to melting pot.

Light leather gloves.

An old muffin tin to make "ingots" of your cleaned up wheelweights.

Leather boots (in case you get lead splatter or a spill on your feet).
Definitely don't want to be wearing tennies.

Fire extinguisher (just in case).

Can't stress strongly enougy the previously mentioned need for ventilation and handwashing .

You'll find out it is a very rewarding experience to cast bullets that ultimately go down range and hit what you are aiming at.
 

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casting

Just a note about your Lee mold

since the blocks are aluminum they can be easily damaged if miss hit using a wooden dowel or similar item to cut the sprue

my .358 mold now sports a nice groove where the sprue plate swings around and contacts the block

I recently started using a leather gloved hand to cut sprues
just don't hold on to the sprue plate very long :lol:
also my bullets drop out much easier if i pinch the blocks (between thumb and index) while opening otherwise I have to tap the handles alot
 

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I'd add a Lee push through sizing die in the appropriate diameter to the list. You may well be able shoot your bullets as cast, but not having the sizing die and needing it will drive you nuts.
 
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