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Discussion Starter #1
Lead is considered a hazardous material. And as such many places have to pay to get rid of it. That's were the bullet caster comes in. If you check with the tire shops and the car dealers many times you can have the wheel weights (WW) just for sweeping them up and carting them off.
WW are good to use as a casting material just as they are. Some will add antimony or tin but straight WW's do fine for me.
Some things to consider:
1. I put mine in 5 gallon buckets and they do get heavy in a hurry so have help loading them or don't fill the buckets too full.
2. "Prime the pump," that is think about giving the man in charge some little gift on and then. A turkey for Thanksgiving/Christmas, a resterant certificate, something that will keep him happy and you in lead.
3. Lead is dangerous--I would think long and hard if I had children in the house as lead is supposed to be especially dangerous for the little ones. For this reason I cast outside in the open air.
4. About a 1/5 or so of the WW weight will be the metal clips that you will skim off throw away. So 100 lbs of WW won't give you 100 lbs of alloy.
5. It does take time to cast. So you have to see if it makes sense (time and money-wise) to cast rather than buy them.
All this to give you an idea of what's in store for you if you take the plunge to start casting.
Walt
 

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Where to get lead alloy for casting your ow

Walt,
It is my understanding that the faster the bullet, the greater the need for harder bullets, and at CAS speeds wheel weights are more than hard enough. Is this correct, or do I need to look for other materials to increase the hardness? I'm a black powder shooter, will I need softer bullets, I know that they seem to do better softer with black powder, but how soft would that be?

I guess I need to speend a bit more time in the casting forum, but you brought it up! :grin:



Butler Ford
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Where to get lead alloy for casting your ow

You are correct that at CAS speeds straight wheel weights are fine.
My motto has always been: "If it works then mess with it." Always trying out new stuff as I cast--but still seem to come back to the WW as the only component of the bullets.
As an aside, I also cast my 9mm bullets and they step out at just over 1000 fps and don't have leading problems with them. (Yes I know 1000 fps isn't fast but it's faster than my .45LC's)
Walt
 

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Casting indicators

Personal,I've only been casting about 20 yrs. A friend who I loan stuff back & forth with has casted for over 40 yrs. Look close at yore bullets. If they are glazed looking the melt is too hot. Wrinkles mean a little cool. If yuh stay under 1200 fps wheel weights are o.k. If yuh push'em hard look in the barrel for signs of leading.The bores in my SSA's look like polished steel (mirror) which they are from all the lead down the bore. My CAS guns have never had a jacketed bullet fired through them. If yuh mix anti-mony & lead 1:10 that is somewhat harder. 1lb. 50/50 solder to 10 lb. WW that is a mix that can be shot fast (1400+). But what is the point? A 255gr. slug at 900+ will take resonable size game & knock the fire out of a reactive target. IMHO :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Where to get lead alloy for casting your ow

Some casters will intentionly cast their bullets hot to get the frosted look. They will use liquid alox and believe that it will stick better to these bullets. I have casted them both ways (mold gets hot and I don't take time to let it cool) and they shot the same.
 
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