First thing I had to look up Yeti. You could rechamber a .357; stub something (more work); OR
give up on the Yeti and get a .35 Whelen (factory ammo and dies); get a .243 or such and have it rebored to .358 Winchester and get the rifling you want (again having a factory source of ammo and dies.

 

First I know how you feel about single shots. I own many dozens of them but ZERO AR's but I don't quite get what your after ? I think Kennyd gave you great advice, buy a 35 Whalen, I believe you can buy a complete rifle for much less than a 357 mag barrel will cost you.
Do you need more power than a 35 Rem. ? You can also find handis in that caliber for less than a 357 mag or max also.
You said you have time so give it a lot of thought what you really want. I have quite a few handis in wildcat calibers of my own and they are all good but really not better than factory cartridges and most times when I want something special and wait and think and be patient I usually find it and at a fair price.

jedman

 

jammer308, I should have looked what a 358 Yeti was before commenting.
To get anywhere near the velocities you were thinking this " magic " cartridge is suppose to achieve in a AR you would need to load it to much higher pressures than would be safe in a handi or a beefed up AR.
For a case with such small capacity to produce that kind of ballistics is pure BS ! There is no free lunch.

jedman

 

358 Yeti is cool, yes, but...

Get a 308 handi. Send it out to JES to have it bored out to 357 or 358 with whatever number of number of grooves and twist you want and shoot it as the 358 winchester. This is what the 358 yeti asipres to be in a AR15 platform.

Or for that matter just get a 308 AR 10 and buy the 358 winchester barrel or upper. Same result and a lot less money and time spent. This advice is coming from someone who has a custom 358 MGP in an AR15 by the way.

If you like the wildcats I say go for it. However, Jedman nailed it. There is no magic cartridge. There is no free lunch. Case capacity is finite. You can only get so much out of a specified volume of burning powder safely before pressures rise to unsafe levels for the platform launching the projo. End of story. Done.

 

You will probably spend more money making the Handi barrel than you would spend ordering a TC barrel. If you are into wildcats, the TC is the best game in town. That said, a used lever action in 35 Remington can be had for about the price of a TC barrel and if you want a woods walking gun in the medium bore range for dangerous game the follow up shots in the lever gun may trump the speed of the magic bullet from a single shot.

 

Last time I had JES do rebore it was right around 225.00 round trip. I am not sure what a TC barrel cost. I personally have no experience with the TC's. As for the 35 remington in a lever action that is good advice. Proven and dependable. I have kicked myself repeatedly for not jumping on buying a 35 remington in a LA more than once. I may have to remedy that.

 

The 358 yeti is a shorten 358 hoosier which is a shorten 358 win. In a stout bolt gun the 358 hoosier will push a 200g bullet close to 2,500 fps. The 358 yeti has a COAL of 2.26" so it fits in an AR mag, further reducing its case capacity. I think a realistic velocity for a 200g bullet launched from a 358 yeti would 2,200 to 2,300 fps.

BB

 

My 35 Whelen handi-rifle shoots at a measured 2940fps using the off the shelf Hornady Superformance 200 grain Interlock. I'm impressed with that Hornady ammo.

 

Even the venerable 35 Rem can be loaded to respectable velocity for use in Handi.

Tim

 

My thought exactly. A 180 grainer running 2450 will anchor anything in the lower 48 if the shooter does his part.

 

That's JES' rebore cost including the rechamber and return shipping, he'll charge more if he has to rent a reamer, or if he has to bore it more than once to step up to a large bore, like from .257" to .510" will require a second bore before rifling. Many of us have had Jesse do rebore/rechambers on H&Rs, he's done 3-groove 9.3x62, 376 Steyr, and a 5-groove 50-140 for me.

Tim

http://www.35caliber.com/2.html

 

Outstanding!

 

If you want a unique 35 round take a 35Rem have the 358Win reamer run approx 0.4" to deep then add a rim cut to fit a 444Marlin. After all that is done, run a full sized 444 into a 358Win size die adjusted to set the should for your final chamber dimension. What you will end up with is a rimmed round that hits the mark between a 358Win and a 35Whelen. Actually, not a bad shooting cartridge for an unintentional round. Have yet to take a deer or hog with it though.

 

What is stubbing? I've seen the term before here, and it's used a couple times in this thread. I know what reboring is and I know what rechambering is, but I never heard this "stubbing" term outside of this forum.

 

Essentially take a donor barrel, typically shotgun, cut it down. Insert a new barrel into it fixing it into place by welding, epoxy, etc.



Fix extractor/ejector to handle the new cartridge, add scope base, sights etc. And hey presto, what was a fairly common, low cost shotgun barrel is something else.


My only stubb job is a 9mm bought here. I think it was a fairly early effort by one of the members. It had a couple of little things not quite perfect with it. Scope base pointed some 2 feet left at 25 yards. But it only cost me 60$ to have a gunsmith drill and tap new holes a bit further forward. Base covers the holes so it does not show. And it will stack 9mm bullets at 100 yards. It is at least a 1.5 MOA gun and with a better scope and younger shooter I suspect would do better than 1 MOA.



All I know is that I am dang happy with it.



Many cut the shotgun barrel quite short. Mine was left almost full length so it looks like a bull barrel.


Somewhat like a chamber adapter but they tend to be mounted permanent.