rlm2007x

Not really the best product for metal protection - i would suggest using a quality gun oil.

 

Bore butter is designed to prtect the bore. I would think that because of it's paste like consistency it would attrack alot of debris, also it gets very stiff when it is cold. I like to use a proct called "EEz-Ox" for protecting all metal surfaces (eccept the bore of BP guns) and Kroil oil for moving parts. (not the red Kano-Kroil)

 

Eexoz is one of the best protectants made, I use it on all firearms.

Tim

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

 

Great reading, Tim. A can of Eezox is on the way. Now, what are your thoughts on removing all of the pottasium salts from an ML bore. I never thought of it that way before. Just get the gunk out and patch til it looks clean. I gennerally use TC #13 for short term cleaning and bore solvents from various manufacurers for long term. What say...

 

Miracle cleaner has always worked as a solvent for me, equal parts murphy's oil soap, alcohol and peroxide, store it in a dark bottle or the peroxide will turn to water, it's cheap and effective. Plug the nipple or touch hole, pour a little down the bore and brush with a nylon bore brush, uncork the nipple/touch hole, then just use hot water, the hotter the better, to rinse it out, once the barrel is good and hot it dries very quickly, I wear a pair of heavy rubber gloves, makes handling the barrel a lot easier when it's hot. Pour the barrel full of water, pump it on thru with a patch, repeat a few times. Then pour a little 91% rubbing alcohol(not 70%, it already has too much water in it) down the bore to get rid of any remaining water that may still be in the flash channel or breech, use the pumping action on the rod with a patch down the bore to push it on out the nipple or touch hole, water will mix with alcohol and it will carry any trapped moisture out and the residue will evaporate quickly. Then use a few patches of oil or even Bore Butter, I have a Green Mt drop in barrel on my TC Hawken that I converted to flint that's not had anything else in the bore except Bore Butter and it's as pristine as the day I bought it new, hasn't been shot in several years, I check every few months for signs of corrosion, my gun room is in the basement with 55-60% humidity, but it's always nice looking. As long as you get the bore good and clean, even Bore Butter will protect it, I think the bad press that Bore Butter gets is due to not cleaning well. I still use Eezox on the outer metal, and in all my other firearms, it dries to a nice clean, tack free film and doesn't collect dust like oil will.

Tim

 

That was how I clean my inlines...my old Hawken still gets the old fashion treatment. When done I pour boiling water thru the barrel then set aside to cool, then patch with Remington bore cleaner per instructions. Coating with eezox will soon be added to my regimen. I cannot stress enough the need to COMPLETELY clean the rifle AS SOON AS you get home. Don't think for a minute that you can oil it and clean it good a few days later. A couple of times of this with Pyro really put a hurting on my first TC Hawken.

 

Maybe I'll just stick with Hoppe's Lubricating Oil.

 

Everybody has a favorite BP bore cleaner, I like to use a 50/50 mix of Simple Green an water. If the weather is cold I add some rubbing alcohol to keep it from freezing. About EEZ-Ox in the bore. For smokeless firearms it is great. For BP firearms it would probably be OK for storage purpose. It does dry to afilm when not too heavily applied. It has petroleum solvents in it, so it may not be good to use with BP in between shots.

 

I've used Eezox in the bore of muzzleloaders, if applied properly which is not too heavily, it dries to a film within 24hrs, and is easily wiped out with alcohol on a cleaning patch, has never caused a problem, it's all my best friend ever uses in his.

Tim

http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html

 

bore butter does a few great things.

it fills in pours of barrel so fouling is easy to remove.

it makes seating a bullet easy and you dont have to clean between shots as much, like every 5 shots .

that is about it.
if water is left in your barrel after cleaning, bore butter will let in rust.

i dont store my hawkins with bore butter but i use it in summer with round balls.i use SHEATH gun oil.

in winter, BORE BUTTER is disaster,it will freeze.
trust me on that.

i use alcahol patch or hoppes bp which is great in winter.


dont stop using BORE BUTTER,use it in summer and NOT for storage.

i seen guys go to car and turn heater on to unfreeze BORE BUTTER in winter.

 

Re: I Like Bore Butter

Does anybody use this product to protect the external parts of the gun, or do you use regular oil for that?

I use Bore Butter to protect the metal of my percussion arms, inside and out. I've got no complaints.

It does stiffen up in cold temps, and I do use it in sub-freezing conditions. I haven't experienced any undue grief in doing so.

I use it as a patch lube in both of my rifles. I use it on over-powder wads in my percussion revolvers and my percussion shotgun. After cleaning, I use it to protect the bores of my gun and rifles, as well as the chambers of my revolvers. I then apply the stuff on all of the external metal.

The newest percussion arm I own is 17 years old. None of them have a speck of rust on them anywhere. They get handled and shot frequently throughout the year.

However, one of my rifles (A Purdey replica made by Antonio Zoli and market by Garrett Arms) has been in storage for about 15 years due to problems with the lock that developed when I last shot it. It got cleaned up and got the Bore Butter treatment. Then it got put away, awaiting repair that it is STILL waiting for. It doesn't have any rust on it, or any pitting, and presents as new -aside from the lock problem.

So, yeah, I like the stuff. But I seem to be in the minority here.

-JP

 

Lots of people use bore butter as a patch lube, I guess it's OK for that but it liquefies at 80 degrees and becomes rock hard at 40. It offers no rust protection at all unless you just fill the bore so full as to exclude air, then you have a mess to clean out before loading. I know of one fellow who does that just so he can say "I use all T/C products" and no, he doesn't work for T/C.
Nothing removes blackpowder residue better than "the universal solvent", H2O, plain old water. After all, the residue is a salt and nothing dissolves salt like water. People insist on trying to invent some miracle concoction by adding a pinch of this and a smidgen of that and proclaim to the world "Eureka I've found it" but no matter what you add to water it is still the water that does the work. Hydrogen Peroxide is the worst of those additives since it is an oxidizer, do you want your barrel oxidized? Adding a dash of detergent to the water does help cut the patch lube so that the water can do it's work but beyond that, water, hot, cold or tepid is the best blackpowder solvent.
Once the barrel is totally clean, dry with patches and heat will help. Run pipe cleaners through the flash channel to clean and dry that important area. Once totally dry, oil with any good rust preventive oil. Before loading it takes only one dry patch to remove the oil and you're set to go.
Muzzleloading can be simple or as complex as you want to make it but I see no sense in making things complex and expensive when simple and cheap works better. ;D

 

ii lube my guns black powder and modern with synthetic trainsmission fluid are synthetic oil

 

Muzzleloading can be simple or as complex as you want to make it but I see no sense in making things complex and expensive when simple and cheap works better. ;D

It ain't just black powder stuff... Ever notice how much contradictory voodoo is required to break in a centerfire rifle barrel according to multiple "experts" in the field?

I've never seen as much superstition mixed with science in any other field than firearms...

 

I have found nothing better than plain old water for cleaning out black powder fouling. Salts, acids, bases, all happen to be highly water soluable, what water won't remove, probably won't hurt your barrel. After cleaning, I spray a water displacing lube followed by a cleaning patch soaked in RIG. Guns that haven't been fired in a year give me a clean white patch when I run one down the bore.

For muzzleloading shotgun, I keep a spray bottle of water + Murphys Oil Soap and spray a shot down the bore after the shot but before the overshot wad. I can shoot trap all day that way with the barrel never getting more than one-shot dirty.

 

Windex, windshield washer fluid, or tepid water are great for cleaning.

Break Free & or WD-40 have always worked on metal for me.

For patch lube......spit, olive oil, or a mix of olive oil, lard, and bee's wax.


All this has been working for about 25 years.

I've heard so many bad things about Bore Butter, I don't use it at all.

 

i use only bore butter on a TC Renegade its about 20+ years old and no rust . The manual that came with it said to do so and it has worked all this time . The book also said never NEVER use any petroleum oil on it and I have not . To clean the gun i use very hot water and dishwashing liquid , nothing else . i dry it put a parch soaked with bore butter down the bore to coat it the wipe the gun down with it . I place a patch with bore butter on it over the nipple and rest the hammer on it .