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Old H&R Frame Disassembly models 1900, 1905, 1908 and 1915 (I think!!)

36K views 26 replies 11 participants last post by  Welaxs  
#1 ·
I decided I wanted to kill a turkey with this old gun, I hunted with it when I was a kid, killed lots of grouse, pheasant and a few ducks with it, and my Dad killed a tom with it in 1996, we called it in close and he shot it with regular high base 2¾ #6 loads, he wouldn't shoot magnums in it! :D It has a full choke which Federal recommends for their Flitecontrol ammo, so I decided to try it, but after getting the gun back from my uncle who acquired it after Dad died, I found it full of about 100yrs of dirt, so I disassembled it to clean it, the steel trigger guard has only one pin in it that is also the trigger hinge, no lower front pin as on newer H&Rs. The large coil spring is the main spring or hammer spring and is a bear to remove if done incorrectly (which I learned after the fact!! ::)), if you c o c k the hammer, you should find a hole in the the rear of the main spring guide(part 56 on the 1900 parts diagram), the hole on mine was full of dirt just like the rest of the action and why I decided to cleqn it in the first place before I shoot it, so I didn't see it, should have figured the notch was for something tho, but hindsight is always more accurate than forethought!! I put a yellow paper clip in the hole for clarification, you **** the hammer and hold the hammer all the way back, insert a pin in hole, then the hammer can be lowered and the spring is held in place preloaded and can be removed for disassembly. Pins are smooth, so they can be removed from either side.

Hope this helps someone,

Tim


http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/HarringtonRichardson-33274/Shotguns-36451/1900-40868.htm
 

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Discussion starter · #3 ·
;D ;D Dad painted it and put a rear sight on it for turkey hunting, just a slotted screw in the firing pin retainer screw hole, but it worked. He also soldered a sling mount to the barrel which I'll be using. I've drilled the front bead mounting hole out to mount a Firesight on it, have the chamber drilled with a single blind hole to mount a Williams WGRS, I have an order in at MCK Tool for a 6-48 plug tap to tap both holes, then I'll mount both sights using Black Max 380 Loctite or epoxy and the single screws. It will be painted flat black when I get all done, I'll post a pic.

Tim

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t.../general-gunsmith-tools/thread-locking-liquids/black-max-adhesive-prod6139.aspx
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I got the barrel tapped and the front sight screw trimmed so it's flush with the bore, that was a real trial and error project!! :-X The stock needs some repair, has several cracks in the wrist area that needed glue, fixed that yesterday, will do some sanding next and then paint it, should be ready for pics and shooting in a day or two. ;)

thx,

Tim
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
All done, just need to pattern it! While looking at paint, the Krylon Fusion Ultra-flat camo colors caught my eye, so I decided on olive instead of black.

Tim

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Discussion starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys, I thought about adding some more camo colors, but for now I just want to make sure it shoots good first, may "customize" it later. The pad is an Uncle Mike's that I bought years ago, it already had some camo paint on it, wasn't showing signs of chipping or peeling and it fit good. ;)

Tim
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Add a shim to the hinge pin, I first shimmed mine when I was a kid 50 some yrs ago using brass shim stock, Dad had what appeared to be a pop can shim in it after using it for his turkey. I just replaced the shim using .004" steel shim stock that I use for barrel fitting, I just put a wrap around the hinge pin and it locks up like new again. You can make a permanent shim following the barrel fitting info in the FAQs, the latch info there doesn't apply as these old guns have a different latch assembly, but you can tighten it up just fine.

Mine had several splits in the stock, I just wedged them apart and used waterproof wood glue in them forcing it in the cracks with a sheet of paper and my fingers, then removed the wedge and wiped the excess off, the wrapped the stock with several wraps of string to clamp it tight together.

Tim
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Some of the 19XX models had square tangs according to Numrich if that's the part you mean, maybe you can figure out what it is by their parts, although they're kinda generic, use the drop down on the left to sort thru to the H&R shotguns. Mine was easy to figure out what model it is since it's a complete gun using the BB of Values, and it is marked the same as yours is.

I wouldn't recommend shooting the 357 barrel on it, those old guns were never made for rifle barrel in any model variation, there's a real serious potential to blow the firing pin right out the back into the shooter face as happened to Dieselbuilder's, fortunately he fired his remotely due to my warning, it's in the FAQs. The 357mag has a SAAMI MAP of 35kpsi, over 3 times the pressure of a shotgun round.

Tim

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php/topic,121724.msg1098413838.html#msg1098413838
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Sounds like mine, the flat sides end about ¼" from the stock and turns to round where it meets the stock, hope ya get it shootin again, but I'll be honest, those used barrels aren't much less than the cost of complete new Pardner!! :D

Tim
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Airsporter said:
I think you're better off with that olive paint. Black is actually not a 'natural' color in the woods.
I don't think black makes a bit of difference as long as it's matte, it certainly made no difference to this tom even tho I was still swinging on him while he was less than 30yds away looking right at me!! ;D

Tim
 

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Discussion starter · #26 ·
Maybe this will help, the M48 is an undated version of the M1908. According to the book, the small frame version would be a M1905 or M1915.

Tim